Mars.inDiapers

He was in the movie Idiocracy, where he potrayed Frito, an extremel stupid man, who, apart from other things, owned an armchair with a built-in toilet bowl, so he'd need not get up from watching television to relieve himself. When I saw the movie I thought, why not diapers? Apparently he thought of it now.

That depends on what "the government" means to you. Whether you think it's an all-powerful Leviathan that uses people as a tool to reach its goals and makes decisions with no consideration for the people's will, or whether the people are the ones who hold the power, and the government is the tool here, being used to reach society's goals. I'd say with most governments, it's somewhere in between. Except North Korea I guess. One thing's for sure, to whichever end of the spectrum the specific government is closer, it didn't just appear out of nowhere, dead set on improving or ruining peoples lives. Someone is responsible. The decisions of governments to abolish slavery didn't come out of the blue either. Some very intelligent, enlightened people, ones that had to be recognized by the general public, and who had to gain its respect as an authority, in order to get into high positions in society, where what they had say about slavery (which was that it is immoral and ultimately detrimental to society) would have any impact at all, must have come from the society itself, and if they haven't had a widespread support, all their intelligence and enlightenment wouldn't have changed anything. If Abraham Lincoln was the only person in the USA to think slavery is a wrong thing, he wouldn't have been able to do a thing about it.

If the parcel tracking shows phone number to the courier, you can try calling him/her/? directly and agree with them on a specific place where you want the parcel to be placed, like back yard, shed, garden house, wherever it's out of sight of package thieves. I was a parcel courier and we were forbidden to just leave parcels lying at the address unless we had explicit consent from the receiver to do so, and if the courier did it anyway, and the customer claimed the parcel was lost (even if it wasn't really), courier had to pay for it. Some customers were a real pain in the ass. Living in some remote middle of nowhere, long way off from the normal route, no one home, never bothering to pick up the phone (if they left their phone number at all), no instructions left to family members or neighbors to take delivery, and no one is going to pay the courier for an undelivered parcel... And the fuel burnt for nothing wasn't gonna pay for itself either. But I digress. Just have it routed to the UPS (DHL/FedEx /..) hub where you can pick it up, or ask the courier to place it somewhere out of sight.

That's a very good config now and should give you good gaming performance at 1440p resolution. Rmx power supplies are of great quality and 750 watts is more than plenty with a generous headroom for any single AM4 or LGA1151 CPU & single GPU system with overclocking. Board is nice too, unless you find yourself needing more usb rear ports, but there are extenders for that which plug into board headers, EVGA makes top quality nvidia graphics cards, for overclocking I would perhaps pick one that has EVGA's iCX technology to keep temperatures in check (not an issue without oc, especially if you have a good airflow case). Selection of cases with an optical drive bay is growing thinner by day, it's a dying format, optical disc backups aren't worth it - normal discs degrade over time and archival grade discs are more expensive per GB than hard drives, films are on Netflix and operating systems, games and apps are pretty much all distributed online or on flash with it being dirt cheap. Unless you have a collection of music and movies on CDs, DVD and Blu-ray, you may as well leave the optical drive out completely.

1) MB: there are better options for that price, one, boards with newer B450 chipset are almost the same price and will support Zen2, so that's a better option for future upgrades Anyway, board you picked is a full-size ATX. Do you need that? Wouldn't Micro-ATX size be enough? How many PCIe cards do you plan to install, this board is supporting 2-way CrossFire which you don't need, (EDITED, my bad, posted info about different board before), no SLI, but the graphics card you picked doesn't support SLI anyway. Not to mention, SLI doesn't always scale up very well, and unless you're going for the absolute pinnacle performance, it's far better and cheaper to just get a GPU that's one tier higher. Also this board has two conventional PCI slots (have a specific need for that?), no analog audio 7.1 output, no USB type C, M.2 supports both SATA and NVMe which is nice, only four fan headers ... For the similar price, I'd pick , ASRock Fatal1ty B450 gaming K4 or better yet, ASRock B450 Steel Legend (available sizes either a full size ATX, or microATX), beefier VRMs (if you get into overclocking later, although if you want to get more serious about that, an X470 board would be more suitable option - but also more expensive), more fan headers, four of which support up to 24 watt fans or pumps, two M.2 slots, one supporting PCIe x4 NVMe, other supoorting SATA 3 and PCIe x2 NVMe, USB type C, reinforced PCIe slots, 7.1 audio with the Steel Legend. If you're getting a high-end CPU sku, might as well get a proper board. 2) CPU - highest AMD mainstream platform SKU at the moment, can't really say anything bad about it. Do you plan on overclocking? If so, see what I had to say about getting a board with more VRM phases. 7) I'll jump to GPU, this is a mid-range GPU that you're pairing here with a high-end CPU. That doesn't make a lot of sense for gaming. Going down a tier with a CPU, to a Ryzen 5 2600x, and one tier up with the GPU, to RTX 2070, would make a more balanced system. 3) PSU you picked is quality unit, but 850 watts is total overkill for this configuration. Even 750 watts is an overkill. 650 watts is still way more than necessary for 2700x and 2060 at stock speeds. Your CPU has 105 watts TDP, and your picked GPU has 150 watts TDP (2070 has 185 watts TDP). With some overclocking headroom and other components power consumption in mind, I'd get either a 650 watt 80+ platinum certified, or a 750 watt 80+ Gold certified power supply. This power supply is only 80 Plus Bronze certified and it's not fully modular (fully modular power supply is of course not necessary, but it's nice-to-have, and saves a lot of work if, for example you need to RMA you power supply, or you go a tier higher with the same brand. I've recently upgraded my power supply and because it was fully modular and the new one I bought from the same brand, I didn't have to re-do any of the cabling, just unplugged the old and plugged in the new. https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator When I put the parts you picked in here, added some LED strips, bit of overclock and overvolt on both CPU and GPU, and set the usage on 24/7 gaming, result was 529 watts at load, 650 watts recommended. Even if you keep the 2700X and go for RTX2070 and overclock and overvolt, 650watts is still good with some headrom, although then you might as well get a 750. Remember, that's with 24/7 usage in games and overclocking + overvolting, which does increase power draw. Are you going to do that? The reason why you don't want to go absolutely over the top for a PSU is that they are most efficient when utilized between 20 to 90 percent load. An 850 watt power supply will be below 20 percent load when your computer is at idle. 4) RAM - nothing wrong with that, just make sure it's 3000MHz or higher, but not way too much higher - again, planning on overclocking the memory? If not, 3000 MHz will be plenty. Personally I wouldn't memory overclocking, it has diminishing returns, so as I said, don't spend too much on memory that can clock way higher than normal memory controller frequency (on 2700X that's , i believe 2933 MHz - or is it 2666 MHz? - someone please correct me if im wrong here). 5) Storage - samsung and WD have many product lines, so .. a brand and capacity doesn't say much. Samsung 970 EVO will be great for OS, productivity apps and projects, perhaps some more demanding games or games you play most often (can't think of any that would come close to utiliting even SATA SSD speed, let alone NVMe SSD speed, but it will reduce load times compared to HDD), WD Blue HDD for everything else. 6) have no experience with that, so.. from the looks of it, where the dust filter is, there is only a signle-sided front intake, I'd be worried about restricted airflow. It does have a bottom intake as well though, which kinda makes one wonder what even is the purpose of the front fan slots ... That's the thing I hate about PC cases is they always go with what's trendy, so in the mid to late 2000s there were all these crazy gimmicky case designs, like these god awful abominations: (no idea why they call the first one iCute, it wasn't cute at all, it was actually super cringy. I fucking hated these, whenever I saw one of these severe cases of uglies, I wanted to smash 'em with a baseball bat) ... then few years later after that, case manufactures got a little more sensible for a while again and we got some good, functional desings, with decent airflow. And now everybody is crazy again. This time, it's tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Because hey, screw the airflow! Who gives a damn about the case allowing good amount of air through. What matters is that it allows good amount of LIGHT through! Because.... RGB!!!! If you don't have RGB now, you're nobody. If your computer case has less light sources than an average Las Vegas casino, throw it in the dumpster and go sit in the corner of shame for a few days. And once you've done that, keep your head down whenever you're in public, and pretend that you don't exist. It's just pure cancer... like, is this a computer, or a christmas tree now? All those color shifting lights, what good for is it anyway? It's distracting, it's annoying, it adds power consumption and a heat source inside the case, as if there wasn't enough of it already... One place where RGB makes sense is keyboard, as long as you can configure specific colors to specific keys, which may be advantageous when you're looking for like specific function bound keys while gaming in a dark room. But other than that ... ugh. 8.) this cooler will be more than enough for the ryzen. I can't find what generation pump it uses (it's definitely Asetek though, as most AIOs are). I'd just get the newest NZXT Kraken of appropriate size.

Silly of piper been it has to make such a needless haste when a diaper on his ass was there to contain his waste.

It could very well be the dust preventing proper cooling. The FX series CPUs are known to run hot, especially the one you have, with its 220 watts of TDP (one test that I've seen presented power consumption measurement of an FX-9590 based machine; results were 62 watts at idle, 291 watts with CPU only load, no overclock... ouch), and as per AMD specs, maximum core temperature allowed is 57°C (134.6°F) , so not only you need a monster of a power supply and VRMs, but beefy cooling as well, and if your case is anything but pristine, lack of airflow and hence CPU thermal throttling sure is a possibility. Now, if you want to transfer to new hardware without having to reinstall everything, there are a few options and things to consider. First one depends on what sort of OS are you running: 1) If you're running linux distro or hackintosh.... well I doubt that's the case. If it was, you'd need not ask here for advice 2) If you're running windows 7, you need to get Windows 10, because a) microsoft support for 7 is about to end, b) while it's not impossible to install Windows 7 on new AMD Zen or Intel Lake platforms, its is necessary to jump through some hoops to do that, and I doubt you'd want to be going through that. In which case you'll need to be reinstalling your games anyway. 3) If you're running windows 8/8.1, you need to get Windows 10, because 8/8.1 is just rubbish. Ditto on the games reinstalling. 4) If you're running windows 10, it may be as simple as unplugging your boot drive from your old computer and plugging it into the new one AND transferring your Windows license, because, and someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but from what I know, it's tied to the motherboard. How to Transfer Windows 10 License . If you have an OEM license, it may not be possible and you might need a new one. I'd suggest retail version, not OEM. Transferring boot drive from HDD to SSD may be more tricky. There are tools to clone drives, one I've just google is EaseUs free partition software which claims is compatible with windows 10 (GPT and all that) and can clone from bigger HDD to smaller SSD (provided the used space on all the partitions relevant for windows OS is less than the SSD capacity), but I have no experience with it so I can't recommend or not recommned it. I will be probably trying it soon; will come back with more info then. I've used clonezilla with success, but it was from smaller drive to a bigger one, on an MBR table and with windows 7, so none of that applies here. It may very well be less painful to simply do a fresh windows installation on a new machine with the new ssd already in it, transfer the license, and then just reinstall the games and transfer the save files and other irreplacable data. Unless you have a very specific reason for wanting to transfer complete game installations to a new machine. As for your hardware requirements, RAM: all new desktop platforms use DDR4, the only differences are 1) number of RAM channels, dual channel on mainstream platforms, quad channel on High-End Dektop (HEDT) platforms (Intel Skylake-X or AMD Threadripper). You want a gaming PC, so don't bother with HEDT, there's no benefit; quite the contrary. 2) Supported RAM frequencies and RAM overclock capabilities. Unless you know what you're doing, I would leave that well alone, just see what kind of DDR4 frequency the CPU you pick supports and leave it at that, and of course get RAM that supports that frequency or maybe a step or two higher. Don't spend too much on superfast RAM, especially if you're not going to do a manual overclock. SSD: Get a motherboard that has an M.2 slot and an M.2 SSD. Less cable management to bother with. For games it's not really necessary for the M.2 SSD to be NVMe and SATA3 will do just fine (and be cheaper as well), but make sure the board you pick does support SATA3 on the M.2 slot(s). Some do, some don't. If you don't mind spending extra, might as well go with NVMe. Can't go wrong with Samsung 970 EVO, or 970 PRO if you absolutely have to have the extra lifespan of MLC flash, which double the lifespan of equal size 970 EVO, which uses TLC flash. I wouldn't worry too much about it. CPU: This is where there's a kind of a problem, since there is currently no AMD chip that would match your requirements. Only one that comes closest is the most expensive mainstream platform AMD chip, the Ryzen 7 2700X with 8 cores @ 3.7GHz and maximum boost of 4.2 GHz. (Note: this may change when 3rd generation Ryzen is released). But the problem is rather with your requirements than with what AMD offers. You see, the architectures (bulldozer / piledriver) on which the AMD FX CPUs were based are vastly different from the Zen, Zen+ and the upcoming Zen2 architectures that are (or will be) the basis of the first, respectively second and third generation of Ryzen CPUs. First issue is the core count. AMD has been a bit misleading with the core count of the FX chips (there's even a class action lawsuit against AMD regarding core count). The FX chips had two, three or four modules, rather than discrete cores, and each module had two integer cores (for processing, you guessed it, integers), but only one floating point core per module, and a shared level 2 cache per module. This unusual architecture meant that where floating point performance mattered, they had effectively half the core count than advertised, and many applications saw the FX quad, hexa and octa core chips as being 2core/4thread, 3core/6thread or 4core/8thread chips respectively. AMD claimed this architecture was good for high clock speeds (which it inarguably is; with the FX-8350/ FX-8370 currently holding the world record in overclocking at 8794.33 MHz or 8722.78 MHz respectively, depending who you ask: https://valid.x86.fr/records.html , https://hwbot.org/benchmark/cpu_frequency/halloffame. There's also the one with Celeron 352 in the top 10, which is not a coincidence; I'll get to that later), but they had very poor IPC (instructions per cycle), which resulted in overall poor performance compared to contemporary Intel processors. And it's super ironic, because in the early 2000s, Intel had the exact same problems with their Netburst architecture - high clock speeds, rubbish IPC, shitty performance, completely got rekt by contemporary AMD chips with much lower clocks (and lower TDP and heat output), but waaay superior IPC. That Celeron 352, figuring on the top 10 overclock list, clocked at 8543.7MHz, was based on this Netburst architecture. Why would AMD make the exact same mistake with the bulldozer and piledriver? Beats me, but they did. But that's all gone with the brand new Zen architectures, so going from "eight core", 4.7-5GHz FX-9590 to, say, a Ryzen 5 2500x, with "only" 6cores (12 thread with simultaneous multithreading on) and a stock clock speed at "mere" 3.6 GHz (and a 4.0GHz boost clock) may not seem like an upgrade, but the benchmarks don't lie; the Ryzen 2500x will absolutely destroy the FX, and it will do it while drawing third of the power. That brings us to your next demand, water cooler, and that is that you don't need one. If you can afford the luxury, sure, go for it, but if you look at tests done by reputable tech channels such as jayztwocents, linus tech tips, bitwit, and many others (except The Verge - please avoid any "advice" they give like plague; also spread the word), you'll see that CPU liquid cooling, especially closed loop coolers (AIOs) don't offer much better thermal performance compared to quality air coolers such as Noctua. I have a noctua cooler on my CPU. They're excellent. The main advantage of liquid I'd say is the flexibility of radiator placement. Most AIOs use Asetek pump/block combo. Don't buy AIO liquid coolers that use 4th generation Asetek unit or older; I have one and the pump noise is unbearable. To my bad luck, the one I have is on a hybrid graphics card that I can't RMA and I can't replace the cooling as easily as it would be to replace a CPU cooler (but I'm going to have to). As for the fan placement on a radiator, if you want to, you can either mount the radiator on an air exhaust port and install fans from the inside (to push air through the rad), or install the radiator at the intake port on a case, typically the front, and have the fans mounted from inside to pull the air through the rad. In that scenario it would be in your interest to make sure there's no gap between the fan frame and the radiator frame through which the fan could suck in air, partially bypassing the radiator and lowering its cooling efficinecy. This obviously also applies to a scenario where fans push air through the radiator, but to a lesser degree. That should take care of the 'ugly visible fans' problem, but be wary that when mounting a rad on exhaust (typically case top) would also require you also install some intake fans (that would usually be on the front, but it depends on what type of case layout and size you want; there are many, you would need to specify what you want to get any advice), and mounting a radiator (for a CPU) at the front (intake) would mean higher ambient temperature inside the case and as a result, higher GPU temps, which will affect its ability to boost its clock and thereby affect graphics performance. If you buy a hybrid graphics cards and install both CPU and GPU radiators at the front/intake of the case with properly fitted pull fans, you'll be fine, as long as you have a case with separate chamber for the power supply (so it doesn't have to breathe the warm air from the CPU and GPU. I don't see how having a radiator in plain sight, instead of a fan, is prettier, but its your taste, not mine ... If that's what you do, consider buying a motherboard that has proper heatsinks on the chipset and more importantly, on the voltage regulator modules (VRMs) for the CPU.

Not only you have zero evidence that God would do that, you can't even provide evidence independent of your feelings that he exists. You keep worrying about how God would react to your actions and the actions of others with the Bible (something that is objectively immoral in numerous areas) as an absolute morality (which is something can't even really exist) reference on what sort of behavior he'd want from you, while people like this man instead focus on having other people's well being in mind, doing what's objectively good for them (objective morality; not absolute morality), with the objectivity being based on reality of the world. That gives him clear conscience. He does good things for people because of empathy, because of that altruistic part of us that we as a social species have (in a healthy balance with our own egoism, as being either too altruistic or too egoistic is not to our long term benefit). He's not doing good out of fear of hell, but because he's naturally good, as opposed to people who will outright tell you they would go around stealing, murdering and raping people if it wasn't for their fear of God's punishment. He doesn't have to fear God or hell, because, one, there's no rational reason to have that fear, and second, he knows thanks to his empathy, that he hasn't done bad things to people that would warrant reprecussions. That's how he is free and you are not. Edit: Not doing wrong things because I'm capable of recognizing the harmful effect, despite being able to get away with it, is morally superior to not doing wrong things out of fear of punishment. Especially when the punishment doesn't reverse the harm done to the wronged party.

970, 6850, 16, 99, 750, 1, 1080, 3000, 22, Real nerd will know what these numbers mean. Prefixes and suffixes, in no particular order, just to make things easier. K, X, P2, ti, Pro, AR, iPPC, ZR, GB.

I said to flush the mess (crap, poop, doo-doo, shite... ) down the toilet (so that the diaper doesn't stink so badly to raise suspicion after you put in the trash in a sealed bag), not the diaper itself, or any part of it. Did I write that unclear, or what gave you the idea that I would suggest flushing a diaper down a toilet? I'm not that fucking stupid. Sigh...

These machines are offline, only connected to an isolated network with the other hardware they control, so using XP (or 95) isn't a security risk. There's no reason to make it more complicated by running a VM, it works just fine as it is, so why would you extend your budget to fix something that isn't broken. Plus, these computers need to be absolutely reliable, or else we're not broadcasting. So a simple XP Pro, only the necessary programs and absolutely no bloatware is how it's ensured that they run 24/7/365.25 with no issues whatsoever.

Not at home (although I might have to if I can't get W7 to work well on my Legacy games AM2 platform PC I've recently put together from parts I had lying around), but at work we have a few computers that have to run old OS because of the legacy software we need to run on them isn't supported on newer OS, so they're still running Windows XP. Or Windows 95 in some cases...

DL almost entirely, although I am into some stuff that overlaps to AB, I'm seriously considering buying a onesie, or diaper suit or whatever it's called, I really like diapers that resemble modern baby disposables (especially Pampers - the standard green ones, called baby dry, or active baby in some regions), and I like to get into a mindset of would be 3 to 4 year old me. But certainly not to like, several months old me. Not sure how would I even do that, but I since I remember the square root of jack poop from that age. But as for the explicitly (adult) baby stuff like, pacifiers, baby food and bottles, elaborate baby clothing etc..., I'll pass.

Ban? Conversion therapy shouldn't even be a thing at this point. But when you have a better chance of explaining, that this pseudoscientific, life ruining malpractice is wrong, to a brick wall than to the people pushing it, this is what it comes to.

In the other thread you said you bought two TV sets, two Nintendo 3DS, a Nintendo Switch, a PS4 and a computer.... Really? You need all that stuff when you're in financial trouble? I get that you want to enjoy some fun. So don't sell all of it. Keep just the minimum plus something (say, one TV, PC and one console). But you don't need it all. You bought too many gadgets when you weren't certain how things will go in the future (okay, you can't predict getting screwed over in an online order, but it wasn't news to you that your brother isn't going to be of much support in the financial department, was it? And you buying shit for him to waste time on instead of looking for jobs didn't do a lot to improve that). Look at it this way. All the things you get rid of now, in order to ease the pressure of bills and loan payments, will be easier to get back in the future when you're not caught in a debt avalanche. I'm sorry for being so blunt. I could just say 'don't worry about it', and 'everything is going to be okay', but that was not going to make your problems go away, and the way I see it, you kind of were setting yourself up for trouble, spending money on unnecessary stuff and keeping no reserve to fall back on if shit were ever to hit the fan. So yeah. Sell something to get some weight off your back. Your brother certainly doesn't need any gaming equipment if he didn't work for it. Get rid of it. It will motivate him to get off his ass a lot more likely than him still having the option of staying sat down at a TV set and a video game console. Downsize your cellular data service if necessary. And if you pay for your brother's cellular service, then definitely curb it. Anything above 500 to 1000 MB of cellular data per month is not necessary for job searching and would only serve him as a way of wasting time on the internet with games and shit. No job, no fun. What ever you do, ask yourself this: if you keep all of the things you have, is it because you genuinely need them to keep your sanity, or is it because you just want to keep them, and/or can't admit it to yourself that you can't afford to?

Progressive or interlaced?

They're both gross. Sprite is kinda okayish, when I'm at a restaurant or something I'll have that. Otherwise I just drink plain water.

A claim can either be true or false. To prove that it's true, and thereby have anyone believe it, evidence is needed (unless it's a religious claim of course, in which case a claim seems to be good enough for most people in the world, but I digress). When there's a lack of evidence it only means the claim cannot be proven to be true and we're required to take the default position, which is not accepting the claim. If someone is accused of a crime and not enough evidence is found to prove him guilty, the claim of his guilt is not accepted by the court (hopefully). Doesn't mean he absolutely didn't do it; for all we know, he may have, but the thing is we don't know, and as such have to take the default position (innocent until proven guilty). The innocence is not a proven thing, it's a presumed thing. Reason for that logic (presumption of innocence & in dubio pro reo) is that if everyone had to prove their innocence, instead of it being a presumed thing, no one would have time to do anything else. Same logic applies to any other claim and I'm seriously done with this thread because I don't think I can put it more plain and simple, and if this still doesn't work, well...

That. If current science and technology doesn't allow gathering evidence of something, than that something is not disproven - what it is is meaningless, and will remain meaningless despite any buts, maybes and what ifs, until there's a breakthrough in method of reliable collection of data.

Diapers wear him.

Granted, you're fired. I wish I had a drawer that never runs out of socks, boxer briefs and diapers.

A VPN should be able to bypass that, no?

My diaper is so thick it is the screen in a movie theater.

Yemen, next time they need to be Dublin their effort. Double Czech and be Praguematic. Trying to get it right after it's all done Spain. If Iran for the president, I would want there to be no doubt I'm the legitimate Vienna.

You don't need to call a plumber to come and install or repair your diapers.