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DailyDi

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14 minutes ago, DailyDi said:

Now my Jeep crapped out! I'm praying its just a bad battery, but the thing only has 7k miles on it, I shouldn't have any issues!

Normally batteries have a 5 year warranty. Check the manufacturer 

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1 hour ago, rusty pins said:

The Jeep only has 7K miles?  It should be under some type of warranty  if it's that new.  Maybe it is just the battery.  Check the cables to see if they are tight, charge the battery if you can.

Yeah, hoping warranty will cover if it's anything more than a battery. We charged the battery twice, both times the car ran but the power flickered then cut out. Alternator tested fine though.

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12 minutes ago, DailyDi said:

Yeah, hoping warranty will cover if it's anything more than a battery. We charged the battery twice, both times the car ran but the power flickered then cut out. Alternator tested fine though.

Well if you changed the battery twice it's probably not the battery.

Have you tested the fuses or had a look at the wiring to see if anything's come loose?

 

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30 minutes ago, DailyDi said:

Yeah, hoping warranty will cover if it's anything more than a battery. We charged the battery twice, both times the car ran but the power flickered then cut out. Alternator tested fine though.

Sounds like the control module but I seen alternators fail and not sure it on anytools...

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36 minutes ago, Apache Raccoon said:

Well if you changed the battery twice it's probably not the battery.

Have you tested the fuses or had a look at the wiring to see if anything's come loose?

 

CHARGED the battery twice. As in jump start

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Mike a jump starts only emergency start the car, they do nothing to charge the battery, you would have to run the car continuously for days to bring the battery up to a full charge.

Have the battery checked, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, if it shows its good, have it charged slowly for a few hours on a low setting, to bring the battery up to a full charge.

If you leave your jeep parked for long periods of time, you might want to consider buying and keeping it on a FLOAT CHARGER when the car sits for more than a few days, float chargers usually keep the battery charged in the sweet spot, between 11 and 14 volts.  I like the Black and Decker float chargers I have 4 of them running right now.

Float chargers do not charge dead batteries, they only keep a good battery ready to go at all times, battery chargers do charge batteries.

Ask around you may be able to borrow a small charger from a neighbor, a 2 amp charger is fine,  bring up your dead battery by charging it according to the directions on the charger (they are all different in the ways they work so you may have to keep an eye on it then remove it after a few hours of charging).

I buy my  B&D float chargers at amazon,(under 20 bucks) but you can pick up a cheap one at harbor freight for (about 10 bucks), the harbor fright chargers are not too bad they last a few years.

Warranties on cars go by years and miles, you have to be under both anniversary dates to qualify for part replacements and warranty work.

If you have been regularly  taking your car to the jeep dealer where you bought it for service, they usually give you a battery if its not too far out of warranty.

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Before the tow call, roadside assistance (who did the jumps) tested the battery (said it had a weak cell) and the alternator (fine.)

The battery wasn't holding a charge even to even slow charge it by idling, so I didn't dare take it on the road and try to get to auto zone. Jeep has excellent roadside assistance, so I had them take it to the dealership. If it is the battery I may be able to talk them into covering it under warranty since the car is practically new.

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@DailyDi

They also probably could stick a Diagnostic tester on your Jeep, to determine what it sees or does not see.  If there are any abnormalities, they should show up, and if its a ECU, I believe the testing tools should be able to show that.  Putting a diagnostic tester on the vehicle could also show the mechanics/techs if there are any "codes" that the Jeep is showing them.  I've seen testers that run on IPads. and they plug into the connector into the interface plug, and you can have them run several tests to see what the deal is:  with all the computers on board the cars nowadays, a diagnostic tester COULD determine if there are issues.

This is especially important if you are experiencing electrical issues :)

Btw, my dad was a mechanic for over 30 years :)

Good Luck!

Brian

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Also, as odd as this sounds, check that you hav'nt left any lights or accesories on. That happened on my car, and it took a bit of an internet search to get it straightned out. ( interior light was on and it took a research to find that in order to turn it off, I had to pull the light switch out, and turn it clockwise, and push it back in to turn the $%#&@!&#&! thing off and not kill the battery....again! ? 

Soooooo...you might check that, but if the diagnosis is a bad cell, then a new battery it is....sorry..????

 

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My Shelby has a control module that sits in-between the battery and the alternator. It basically sends a signal to charge or dis-charge battery and controls voltage input/output. If that's failing it will appear as though the alternator is failing. I seriously love newer cars and trucks but some of the technology I feel is redundant and silly to a point that trouble shooting them takes a special degree.

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10 hours ago, square_duck said:

Also, as odd as this sounds, check that you hav'nt left any lights or accesories on. That happened on my car, and it took a bit of an internet search to get it straightned out. ( interior light was on and it took a research to find that in order to turn it off, I had to pull the light switch out, and turn it clockwise, and push it back in to turn the $%#&@!&#&! thing off and not kill the battery....again! ? 

Soooooo...you might check that, but is the diagnosis is a bad cell, then a new battery it is....sorry..????

 

@DailyDi @square_duck

Yeah, i remember when My Parents had a 1987 Ford Thunderbird:  It was a demo model, had power everything, and had the cloth seats.  The only thing was: It was a 2 door, and mom said that "the next time we get a car, its GONNA have 4 doors, and its hard for (Brian) to get in and out and deal with the seats."  As luck would have it, it was similar to a Lincoln Town Car:  Had a Power Moon Roof and a sensor for the head and marker lights:  Normally, it was set to "AUTO" and turned on when in the dark, or dusk, and when you drove into the garage/carport, you saw the lights turn on, and then when the car sat a couple minutes, the lights power OFF and wouldn't have to be turned on or off.

My Dad used to inspect all of the family vehicles:  Even when my parents split up and went their separate ways, Dad and the crews at the garage used to fix mom's car, change tires, do inspections, and stuff like that.  MORE times than I can remember, we would have to have the car inspected, and when Dad or any of the guys would have to inspect the Thunderbird, he had to TEST the lights, to see of they worked, before passing it, and placing a sticker on the vehicle.  When they did this, they rotated the light cluster to FULL ON, and checked the lights.........

Problem was:  When Dad or the Guys FORGOT to put it back to "AUTO", the car would NOT start or would NOT crank, so my stepdad would have to either jump the car, or would find that the battery was FLAT as a PIZZA:  Dad had one of those professional battery jumpstarters/chargers that he could set on Low, Medium, High or "Jump" and he could set the amount of charge.  When we had older cars, you basically pulled the knob OUT all the way, and CRANKED it all the way to the right until It stopped and you had the dashboard LIT UP on HIGH. and if you turned the knob LEFT, it got dimmer.  You could SEE the bezel pulled out, and most times, you shut the lights off as you exit the vehicle, and you know that the thing is out when you open the door, because on 70's Fords, the Wipers were on the right of the Lights switch, and that was on the cluster to the LEFT of the steering wheel. 

So, as @square_ducksays:  If you have trouble starting your vehicle, make sure that your fuses are good (sometimes you have 2 fuse boxes:  One under the hood, and one inside the vehicle, under the dash).  Then, if fuses don't seem to be the problem, and they are NOT blown or somehow loose in the box, make sure you shut off the lights, radio, heater, wipers, directionals/hazards, and anything else that may be trying to draw power from your battery - Then, once this is done, see if she cranks, and starts.  There may be something that is drawing down your battery, and you don't even realize that it is doing it.  Even a Cell Charger, or a 12-volt power inverter that you may use to charge devices could be causing a power reduction, even when sitting in the Cigarette Lighter jack!  You could also have a bad ECM, or PCM, but Jeep should be able to tell you if that is true. and the codes the testing computer gives them should be able to narrow it down more!

Good Luck!

Brian

 

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If one cell in the battery shorts out, you will have a problem.  Before buying a new battery, is there another vehicle you or a friend has that you could swap batteries?  Just as a test, swap batteries and drive it around for a bit and see if you have any issues.  If not, check the warranty on the battery.  Even if it's been used for a year, replacing it if it's bad should be a pro rated price.

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That really sucks is should be a simple issue, they should prioritize that. Im guessing its pretty new so it should be under warranty. But if not I'd buy a battery from a local mechanic, it will be so much cheaper than the stealership. If its something else a parasitic draw test should find out whats killing the battery or as awakenevil said it could be a control module in between the battery.  Is it a wrangler? I've owned 5 jeeps now and love them but they keep you broke sometimes lol

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No loaner, though I didn't ask.

It is under warranty which is why I had them tow it. If it had been driveable I'd of taken it to Autozone and swapped out the battery but if its more serious warranty should cover it, so letting them do it.

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15 hours ago, Timmybaby said:

That really sucks is should be a simple issue, they should prioritize that. Im guessing its pretty new so it should be under warranty. But if not I'd buy a battery from a local mechanic, it will be so much cheaper than the stealership. If its something else a parasitic draw test should find out whats killing the battery or as awakenevil said it could be a control module in between the battery.  Is it a wrangler? I've owned 5 jeeps now and love them but they keep you broke sometimes lol

LOL Prioritize. I bought a 72k car, and 4 months later the engine blew up. Originally they told me 12 to 16 weeks for a new engine... I was like " Dude, when I sat in that office and your sales manager was like you are buying the king daddy dick car, and its pride of Ford Motor company, and we will do everything in our power to resolve issues quickly for you..." They had me hooked the minute I signed my name to that dotted line... Fast forward 4 months later and a blown cam destroyed the engine, and they said 12 to 16 weeks to get me an engine and another 4 weeks to schedule the install. I was like "No Sir" and you can take your ass over there to that other GT350 in the showroom and yank that engine out and throw it in mine... Needless to say after a few calls to corporate ford, and legal advise they somehow managed to get my engine next in line for assemble. (Granted all SVT vehicles are hand assembled) it took the threat of legal action and flood their FB/Other social media with pissed off reviews! Its like once they get you out of the showroom and sales office they could care less about you, your car, or warranty unless you are paying out of pocket for repair!

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44 minutes ago, AwakenEvil said:

LOL Prioritize. I bought a 72k car, and 4 months later the engine blew up. Originally they told me 12 to 16 weeks for a new engine... I was like " Dude, when I sat in that office and your sales manager was like you are buying the king daddy dick car, and its pride of Ford Motor company, and we will do everything in our power to resolve issues quickly for you..." They had me hooked the minute I signed my name to that dotted line... Fast forward 4 months later and a blown cam destroyed the engine, and they said 12 to 16 weeks to get me an engine and another 4 weeks to schedule the install. I was like "No Sir" and you can take your ass over there to that other GT350 in the showroom and yank that engine out and throw it in mine... Needless to say after a few calls to corporate ford, and legal advise they somehow managed to get my engine next in line for assemble

@AwakenEvil

I've had to do that, threaten them to do something they took WAY too long to do:  It happened to ME in like 2001, when the Quickie 3 wheelchair I had back then was ready for replacement.  I had a wheelchair that had front pneumatic (blow up) tires on the wheelchair - The main wheels were fine, but I'd ALWAYS had problems with the Caster Wheels being FLAT - It seems that the tires would always be flat, and my dad had to bring a tank of air from the garage.  He would blow them up twice a month, and he finally gave me an ORDER that He wanted me to see about the Flat Free Inserts for the Front Tires.  So, we did that like 2 chairs later, but you'll LAUGH at thisL

I ordered a new chair, went through the processes, had been approved for the chair I needed, and what you needed was the Prior Authorization for the CHAIR - It has to go through the review process, and someone has to sign it, and send it to the DME (Durable Medical Equipment) Supplier, so that they can order the chair.  This instance, there was a completed order, and the chair had been ready to order with everything I was approved for, and the PROBLEM was that they person who was supposed to look at the PA to APPROVE it and send it was ON EXTENDED MEDICAL LEAVE, so my PA sat in his IN box on his desk, and had not been processed in 100+ days.  

I was LIVID, and had enough of this:  I said "isn't there anyone COVERING for this dude that is out?  They say "yes, but its gonna take 2 weeks....blabla blabla blabla"  I said "The SUPPLIER says they are READY to order the chair NOW, and they need that PA"  They gave me some BS about how long it takes, which I said "I don't CARE about that......Go to the guys desk, LOOK at the thing, sign it and FAX it to the Supplier, NOW!"

They say "Are You THREATENING me sir??"  I say "NO, I am TELLIN' You that I will file a COMPLAINT with the Ombudsman if they don't get that thing MOVING:  I don't CARE about the guy being out, Need my CHAIR."  They said:  OK, and approved it within 15 minutes and it was faxed in 2 hours, and my chair took 3 weeks to get here. 

Sometimes, you have to do as @AwakenEvil says:  Threaten them and HOUND them like the measles to get them to so what you need them to do:  For a $72,000 Car, I would be doing JUST as he did:  God, that is aweful ;(

Brian

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An FYI.  I have owned 3 jeeps, the first a used 1991 Cherokee, then I got a 1995 Grand Cherokee used that was 4 years old!  I loved that Jeep and drove it for 20 years until the frame rusted through in a couple places.  I sold it to a mechanic who fixed the frame over 2 days and is driving it!  Body is in good shape, interior is great, runs like a charm with 350,000 miles on it!  I miss it but I bought a 2004 Grand Cherokee with 140,000 miles and with about $1,500 in minor upkeep I put into it (brakes all around, bearing, u-joints, new tires and some repair I did myself), it looks and runs great!  I'm sold on Jeeps, but if you put as many miles on them as I've done over the years, you have to do the upkeep and replace the worn parts.  If I can get 350,000 miles out of one and still have in running in excellent condition, it's well worth it!

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8 hours ago, AwakenEvil said:

LOL Prioritize. I bought a 72k car, and 4 months later the engine blew up. Originally they told me 12 to 16 weeks for a new engine... I was like " Dude, when I sat in that office and your sales manager was like you are buying the king daddy dick car, and its pride of Ford Motor company, and we will do everything in our power to resolve issues quickly for you..." They had me hooked the minute I signed my name to that dotted line... Fast forward 4 months later and a blown cam destroyed the engine, and they said 12 to 16 weeks to get me an engine and another 4 weeks to schedule the install. I was like "No Sir" and you can take your ass over there to that other GT350 in the showroom and yank that engine out and throw it in mine... Needless to say after a few calls to corporate ford, and legal advise they somehow managed to get my engine next in line for assemble. (Granted all SVT vehicles are hand assembled) it took the threat of legal action and flood their FB/Other social media with pissed off reviews! Its like once they get you out of the showroom and sales office they could care less about you, your car, or warranty unless you are paying out of pocket for repair!

Its a shame what you have to go through especially dropping that much cash in the first place, I probably would have drove it through the front of that stealership. I'll take my used jeeps anyday over dealing with a dealership.

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Jeep and Land Rover is made for mechanics 

If you demand a loaner equal to your car the job gets done faster as they will lose money if they let you keep the loaner over a long period
But if you don't do anything, they will keep delaying as they have other people demanding stuff 

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I'm giving them more leeway than I usually would because we are still under covid restrictions here. I'm going to give them the weekend, but start hounding them Tuesday/Wednesday to get mine done.

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