Car Woes

[DLK]

Hi guys, just have to vent! My jeep sucks I hate it!!!!! It mysteriously decide not to start last sat. Yep hasn't run since. $200 in so far and nothing, so its gonna go someplace on a hook and cost me a bloody fortune and IT PISSES ME OFF!!!!!! when i get the thing running its getting gone!!!! buying another honda prolly. sorry jsut mad.

[LuvsGurl]

Generally speaking, combustion requires fuel, air and spark. If your vehicle isn't starting then you are missing 1 of the 3. If the engine turns over when you turn the key you know the battery and starter are good. So check the distributor/plugs/wires, check the fuel system for a clogged filter or a bad pump (you should hear the pump prime if you turn the key to the pre-ignition setting) then check your timing belt to see if it has jumped some teeth, which would prevent the valves allowing air/fuel in from opening at the right time.

[freswith]

Check the spark by connecting one plug lead to a spare plug and balancing it on top of the engine. You should see a spark when the engine cranks.

[drynot]

What year and model of Jeep?

[DLK]

Generally speaking, combustion requires fuel, air and spark. If your vehicle isn't starting then you are missing 1 of the 3. If the engine turns over when you turn the key you know the battery and starter are good. So check the distributor/plugs/wires, check the fuel system for a clogged filter or a bad pump (you should hear the pump prime if you turn the key to the pre-ignition setting) then check your timing belt to see if it has jumped some teeth, which would prevent the valves allowing air/fuel in from opening at the right time.

Thanks for the input. First its a jeep, soooo this problem is much more subtle, after all its a jeep. The $200 went to starter, which was weak anyway and batt which was also original and it was starting to leak. the clutch saftely switch is now gone as it has been causing this intermintaly for a while, bypassed, will spin when starter is crossed don't think I have power to ignition have check relays so who the hell knows the safety thing may not be bypassed only time and cursing will tell

[DLK]

What year and model of Jeep?

06 wrangler I6 6speed manual. currently large paper weight. lol

[LuvsGurl]

06, so you have the 4.0 inline 6. Those things are relatively bulletproof so hopefully it's not something major.

Pull the plug wires off and check to see if you have spark. That 6 would fire up even if two of the cylinders were kaput, so it's probably an all-or-nothing kind of deal.

If no spark then we at least know it is an electrical issue.

If there is spark on all 6 cylinders pull the plugs, turn it over and you should be able to see a fine mist of fuel coming out of each of the plug holes. That will confirm fuel.

[bbgirlmichelle]

Have you checked the computer trouble codes? They'll usually tell you what's wrong:

How to check jeep Wrangler trouble codes

It's the first thing to check on any vehicle 1995 and newer.

[BBB]

06, so you have the 4.0 inline 6. Those things are relatively bulletproof so hopefully it's not something major.

Pull the plug wires off and check to see if you have spark. That 6 would fire up even if two of the cylinders were kaput, so it's probably an all-or-nothing kind of deal.

If no spark then we at least know it is an electrical issue.

If there is spark on all 6 cylinders pull the plugs, turn it over and you should be able to see a fine mist of fuel coming out of each of the plug holes. That will confirm fuel.

Sometimes I wonder if it's your husband posting... Cause I ain't seen him round here in awhile...

[beallucanb]

If you were having starter problems it is a good bet trying to start the jeep you flooded the hell out of it and if the plugs are al old as the hills I would bet they are so fouled with fuel that they will not fire.

My suggestion would be to put a set of plugs in it and give it a shot, buy autolites or something that is around a buck, these are decent also NKG, Denso,

Jut buy regular plugs don't spend the national budget on something pricey they all do the same thing.

[square_duck]

It's possible that your fuel pump took a header. I have an '01 mustang that I was driving and one day it just died while pulling out of a parking lot. I was able to get off the road and call for towing. It turned out to be the electric fuel pump....which I got replaced and the car has run like a clock ever since. If you don't hear your pump 'humming' as mentioned above, and the engine cranks....your pump is dead.

Sorry

[LuvsGurl]

Sometimes I wonder if it's your husband posting... Cause I ain't seen him round here in awhile...

Haha no. I've just heard him talk about cars enough to know a few basics. Plus I've been doing a lot of reading on Jeeps lately, hoping to buy one soon.

[square_duck]

Haha no. I've just heard him talk about cars enough to know a few basics. Plus I've been doing a lot of reading on Jeeps lately, hoping to buy one soon.

I am sure he would LOVE to sell you his at a very reasonable price!!!

[Bettypooh]

Diagnostics and repair used to be so easy Today it's : even with the trouble codes in hand Basics: First thing- always check all the fuses with a test light. Some hide under covers under the hood or elsewhere as well as the visible fuse panel. You can't always tell by looking- use a test light All of today's cars need good power to the electronics while the starter is working If the battery is even slightly weak, it has to go. Most auto parts chains will do a load test on your battery for free. If they say it's bad go to their competitor for a second opinion If it's good, sit in the car and listen to the fuel tank as you turn the switch to 'on'- you should hear the fuel pump humming for 1 1/2 seconds or more, then it will shut off. If you don't hear it check the fuel pump relay and collision sensor switch (which may have a reset on it) Pumping OK? Now take your test light to the injectors- any one will do. As a helper turns the engine over the light should blink. No light? many causes. Blinking? injectors are OK so you've got ignition problems; again many causes (on my car a "no spark" code can have 7+ different causes)

On older cars with OBD 1 you can get the trouble codes with a jumper wire- these are a series of idiot light blinks which you write down as you go; get them right the first time because sometimes the jumper resets the codes Newer cars need a scan tool- again your local chain parts house will usually do this for free (or very cheap). The problem here is that an error code can have many causes, but it usually points you into the right direction

Going deeper is more than the average car owner wants to do, but there are online resources for getting help- just google your car and 'owners group' and you'll find people who know things there (we hope- remember these are often people like yourself so look for a member who has helped a lot of people successfully before believing what they say). If you've got time and tools, "Alldata" has the factory service manuals online for most cars but it will cost you a fair penny for their service

Today's cars are almost never repairable on the spot so make sure you've got a towing plan- I use AAA+ which is good for 100 miles; the standard AAA is just 3 miles which ain't worth having Many times your insurance will cover towing- you did read your policy didn't you? Some cars are better than others, but sooner or later they will all die or not start for you, often without warning. That's the price you pay for the efficient cars of today, which are great till they die on you

Bettypooh

[clandestinest]

Jeep = Just Empty Each Pocket.

Squish it and buy a new one, we know you're a millionaire

Now I'll take my inane comments elsewhere.

[DLK]

06, so you have the 4.0 inline 6. Those things are relatively bulletproof so hopefully it's not something major.

Pull the plug wires off and check to see if you have spark. That 6 would fire up even if two of the cylinders were kaput, so it's probably an all-or-nothing kind of deal.

If no spark then we at least know it is an electrical issue.

If there is spark on all 6 cylinders pull the plugs, turn it over and you should be able to see a fine mist of fuel coming out of each of the plug holes. That will confirm fuel.

I totally agree with your logic. straight 6 is bulletproof. No, it doesn't have spark of fuel because the ignition has no power as far as i can tell. The stupid clutch safety thing is a gounding switch, it should be bypassed but I'm still not convinced of that. So, my current belief is that something is not finding a ground.....and it pisses me off to the point that I have stopped messing with it. If a buddy of mine can round up truck/trailer, gonna take it down to his place cuz he has more tools etc... has some experiance with these pieces of jeep shit. if we can't fig it out after all that, then it will get hauled to a shop. Shops r expensive especially when its electrical. rest assured when i get this problem solved there will be a for sale sign in it that day! I will then be purchasing only cheap disposible cars that i can throw away when they break.

[DLK]

It's possible that your fuel pump took a header. I have an '01 mustang that I was driving and one day it just died while pulling out of a parking lot. I was able to get off the road and call for towing. It turned out to be the electric fuel pump....which I got replaced and the car has run like a clock ever since. If you don't hear your pump 'humming' as mentioned above, and the engine cranks....your pump is dead.

Sorry

Man i wouldn't be able to hear that pump anyway....my ears ring too much for that.

[DLK]

Jeep = Just Empty Each Pocket.

Squish it and buy a new one, we know you're a millionaire

Now I'll take my inane comments elsewhere.

LOL! i would agree, but it books for like around 13k in good shape,@22,300 miles its in good shape except for this fanthom gremlin......oh ya did i mention its a jeep.....gremlins come standard at no extra fucking charge

[square_duck]

It could be worse, it could be a Fiat (Fix it again tony) so not only is it a POS, but a foreign one so parts and tools are all difficult to get and work with...at least it was made here...more or less

Good luck!

[Closet DL Male]

Start from the beginning.

When you turn the key on, do you get any instrument warning lights (low oil pressure, battery, etc)? If not, check the engine’s main fusible link. Most cars, especially newer ones will have a main fusible link that couples the battery to the cars DC bus, often times it is part of the fuse box. Take a meter and check for 12vdc at the fuse box.

If you have instrument lights and the car does not turn over with no change in instrument light brightness, then you may have a problem with the start circuit as you stated (manual transmission clutch pedal safety switch), key switch, wiring, Security immobilizer, key chip, etc. Again, a meter and a diagram are helpful.

If you attempt to start the car and your instrument lights dim, then you may have a shorted solenoid, starter, or weak battery (you said you replaced the battery and starter though). Also, you may have a shorted positive 12vdc line to your starter from the solenoid (a line to your starter could have been laying across a piece of metal and burned through or chaffed and shorted).

If your car attempts to turn over and it just does not start, then as Luvsgirl stated (BTW, love a girl who can troubleshoot and work on a car), check the basics.

Keep us up to date.

[DLK]

Start from the beginning.

When you turn the key on, do you get any instrument warning lights (low oil pressure, battery, etc)? If not, check the engine’s main fusible link. Most cars, especially newer ones will have a main fusible link that couples the battery to the cars DC bus, often times it is part of the fuse box. Take a meter and check for 12vdc at the fuse box.

If you have instrument lights and the car does not turn over with no change in instrument light brightness, then you may have a problem with the start circuit as you stated (manual transmission clutch pedal safety switch), key switch, wiring, Security immobilizer, key chip, etc. Again, a meter and a diagram are helpful.

If you attempt to start the car and your instrument lights dim, then you may have a shorted solenoid, starter, or weak battery (you said you replaced the battery and starter though). Also, you may have a shorted positive 12vdc line to your starter from the solenoid (a line to your starter could have been laying across a piece of metal and burned through or chaffed and shorted).

If your car attempts to turn over and it just does not start, then as Luvsgirl stated (BTW, love a girl who can troubleshoot and work on a car), check the basics.

Keep us up to date.

all lights come on and volt/fuel gauges respond when key is turned to "on". after changing starter, i crossed solenoid w/screwdriver. Engine cranks but won't start. Also does nothing from key. They only thing that i found thus far is a relay behind glove box that clicks when key is turned to start. If it cranks with starter crossed, and ignition is on then it should start, but it doesn't, so the ignition system must not be getting power. there is no anti theft system. I still think is has something to do with the clutch thing, as stated in previous post the switch is on the ground side I think....I think something isn't grounded anymore but I can't fig out what....I am not a mechanic so I don't no what to due except jumper the pigtail that the clutch switch is plugged into which i have already done, I am gonna try to jump 1 side of that connector straight to ground and see what happens then try other side. I just keep coming back to that switch. the switch is broken anyway, has been for long time, but i had "put" it back together. the switch isn't separately serviceable from the clutch pedal assembly, go figure. something isn't grounded almost sure of that.

[bbgirlmichelle]

all lights come on and volt/fuel gauges respond when key is turned to "on". after changing starter, i crossed solenoid w/screwdriver. Engine cranks but won't start. Also does nothing from key. They only thing that i found thus far is a relay behind glove box that clicks when key is turned to start. If it cranks with starter crossed, and ignition is on then it should start, but it doesn't, so the ignition system must not be getting power. there is no anti theft system. I still think is has something to do with the clutch thing, as stated in previous post the switch is on the ground side I think....I think something isn't grounded anymore but I can't fig out what....I am not a mechanic so I don't no what to due except jumper the pigtail that the clutch switch is plugged into which i have already done, I am gonna try to jump 1 side of that connector straight to ground and see what happens then try other side. I just keep coming back to that switch. the switch is broken anyway, has been for long time, but i had "put" it back together. the switch isn't separately serviceable from the clutch pedal assembly, go figure. something isn't grounded almost sure of that.

What are the computer codes?

[Closet DL Male]

Yea, it does sound like you are on the right track.

Clutch interlock switches are typically ground lines back to the ECU. If the switch has a quick disconnect connector, one side should be to ground, the other to the ECU. Some cars (Like my Focus) have two switches on the clutch (1 for start interlock, the 2nd for cruise control shut off). If you check both to ground and you have one with minimal resistance to ground <1.0 ohms, then your ground may be ok. The other side would most likely have a very high resistance to ground >20 ohms.

Does the car have a standard coil or does it use coil packs or distributorless ignition? If it uses a standard coil, one side should have +12vdc. If neither has 12vdc, then you may have another relay out, preventing the car from running. However, firt things first, figure out why it won't turn over on the key alone.

Good luck, I think you can find this on your own.

[DLK]

Yea, it does sound like you are on the right track.

Clutch interlock switches are typically ground lines back to the ECU. If the switch has a quick disconnect connector, one side should be to ground, the other to the ECU. Some cars (Like my Focus) have two switches on the clutch (1 for start interlock, the 2nd for cruise control shut off). If you check both to ground and you have one with minimal resistance to ground <1.0 ohms, then your ground may be ok. The other side would most likely have a very high resistance to ground >20 ohms.

Does the car have a standard coil or does it use coil packs or distributorless ignition? If it uses a standard coil, one side should have +12vdc. If neither has 12vdc, then you may have another relay out, preventing the car from running. However, firt things first, figure out why it won't turn over on the key alone.

Good luck, I think you can find this on your own.

huh, that makes total sense!!! never thought bout the cruise control. I think the uses 3 coils in an assembly that houses everything. I will check for voltage at coils thanks so much, cept its dark so I will tomorrow.

[redneck diaper boy]

Some of the folks here are giving you good advice. What sort of maintenance has it had?

I don't know that much about newer vehicles. There are the basics. Does it have ignition? How is the fuel flow? Has the fuel filter been changed? Is the fuel pressure OK? Are the fuel injectors opening? If it has a timing belt, has it snapped or slipped?