feralfreak Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Like the title says i need some help, Link to comment
wddleme Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Well, depends on what you are wanting for the surface of the hearth....obviously it needs to be fireproof.....so let's say tile, or thin slate or other thin rock....if that is the case then anything you build will distribute the weight across the slightly springy floor and basically float...to be conservative frame it out of 2 x Link to comment
babychrise Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 When we moved into our house, and removed the old wood burning fireplaces, the hearth was tile over concrete backer board, plywood, and 2x4s, I think that would still meet code today. It wasn't overly heavy, and had withstood 30+ years of use. Link to comment
feralfreak Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Do I frame it like it's a ned floor? How much of a toe kick do i allow? Link to comment
babychrise Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Mine was framed like a floor, 2x4s laid on the floor and toe nailed to it, then a rim joist to hold the ends. I would probably screw it together so that it doesn't squeak. Link to comment
Bettypooh Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 It all depends on what you are covering it with. If it's a thin stone or thin brick veneer, then nearly anything decent will do; I'd rip 2X to thickness and lay that on top the floor about 12" OC then use 3/4" plywood or Advantek on top. If it's full brick or heavy stone then you may need to add some floor joist support under the existing floor system. Alternately, a number of layers of plywood, OSB, or Advantek would work too. Not a big hearth so not a big problem, but if it were mine I'd add at least some extra support under the existing floor regardless- in time it will sag at least slightly otherwise, and could sag more than slightly if the joists are at full-span now. Either leave about 1/8" space between the new framing and the FP or drop in a sheet of metal between them as untreated wood shouldn't tough masonry directly and treated wood isn't allowable inside the building's habitable envelope. For the adhesion of the masonry I'd use expanded mesh sheet lath, either backed with roofing felt as bought or with that added as a 2 piece construction. Fasten with roofing nails or button head screws about 8" apart. Remember to deduct the masonry, it's mortar bed, and lath thickness from your framing size. Bettypooh Link to comment
Bettypooh Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 For tile advice go to the John Bridge Tile Forum- it's where the best tile Pro's hang out Before Houzz took over TOH the TOH advice forum was as good as advice on old houses got, but now they've de-linked that forum and installed their own inane forums full of people who don't have a clue about anything more complex than what paint colors are popular right now Link to comment
willnotwill Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 If it's a real wood fireplace, most codes call for 18" of noncombustible surface in front of the firebox. One big concern is that you have the subfloor below sufficiently rigid that you're not going to crack the tiles or the grout (or pop the thinset). Link to comment
feralfreak Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Does that mean I should take that black 2x4 out and use a pt 2x there? Link to comment
2sail2 Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Better call building and fire inspector. Link to comment
wddleme Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Personally, if the back 2x4 is solid and been there as long as I suspect I wouldn't worry about replacing it. I have used and am a big fan of Ditra, but for this small area if you do the 12" on center as I and others have recommended with 3/4 ply on top and backer board (or the mesh also mentioned) Link to comment
feralfreak Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I took what I understand from this thread and did a drawing, Link to comment
diaperguy85 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 cool project! anything that can have the potential to destroy my house, i try to get a pro to do, look at/inspect, Link to comment
feralfreak Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I planned on 24, its a x ray type drawing for lack of the right term, adding a 3 inch toe kick Link to comment
feralfreak Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Ive been rethinking the toe kick on the left, Link to comment
wddleme Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 not sure what you are saying about the 1x4.... but here is a quick grab of info on code for distances....not sure where you are.... Link to comment
feralfreak Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 I had a feeling something about the picture was off so i had my cuddly take a look, he said " bad! 2 scales, do again dummy! "*see pic with bear*, so i redid it, *see new drawing *, i added more detail on where the firebox is, added some measurements which i should have done before but I was too dumb and lazy Link to comment
wddleme Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I think you're looking good......joist spacing is close enough!!....other aspects look fine too. Link to comment
feralfreak Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 My cuddly will make sure I post some, je can be a ham! Im wondering the best way to fasten it down, Link to comment
wddleme Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 toenail should do it, either way, use some construction adhesive under the "joists" and with the ply.....tiling instructions will say thinset between the backer board and the ply also... Link to comment
feralfreak Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Okie dokie, i would have never thought of construction adhesive, that should take care of my concern about the bouncy floor in relation to the hearth, thoneet between the plywood and the cement board? Never occurred to me but do that, i want maximum strength Link to comment
wddleme Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 You're supposed to put thinset between the ply and backer and definitely use the backer screws to attach, not roofing nails or such. Link to comment
feralfreak Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Backer screws? There are special screws for that? Im learning all kinds of things! I was thinking right before i fell asleep i should check the level but i wasn't sure, Link to comment
wddleme Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Yup, you'll find then right there by the backer board, usually greenish, made and coated with material that won't degrade in contact with the cement/thinset materials. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now