any carpenters here?

[Bettypooh]

You can land them 1 1/2" to either side of the studs (measaured center to center) with no code or strength issues

[feralfreak]

on insulation, i figured there has to be some between the ceiling and floor joists, but does the rafters need any between them?

[Bettypooh]

What you want from insulation is to put it at the end of the conditioned space; ie the ceiling. This should optimally be R-38 though code may allow less. The 'attic' above needs ventilation, preferrably from the soffit to the ridge and you'll need to keep the insulation from blocking it at the outermost edge. Cardboard 'baffles' or styrofoam ducts are made for that purpose. No vapor barrier orkraft-paper facing is needed on that insulation but if it has that, the paper always goes toward the conditioned (living) space. .Roof vents can serve fine if that section can't easily vent otherwise at the top. If that area needs to be sealed in,

[feralfreak]

i got another question, this one is about the floor joists, lets say the house would have a width of 24 to 30 feet, in the middle of that would obviously be a girder in the middle so the joists would be something like 12 to 15 feet each, in the middle of the joists do i need piers(or whatever they are called, think of concrete blocks filled, and have 4 x 4s supporting the joists) in the crawlspace? if i do, do i need them under each joist or only every certain number of joists?

[Baby Brian]

That would be determined by how big your girder is, and what length it will need to be run. Normally I see at least two 3x12's laminated together. There are also

[feralfreak]

That would be determined by how big your girder is, and what length it will need to be run. Normally I see at least two 3x12's laminated together. There are also

[Baby Brian]

Let the others weigh in too. I'm no certified carpenter or architect. This is just what I've

[Wet Knight]

HOW

[Bettypooh]

Code says the girder ("dropped sill" or "sill beam" as it's usually known) needs 24" square by 6" thick concrete footings supporting it. The usual from there up is concrete block

[feralfreak]

i understand one would need supports under the girder, what im asking about is the JOISTS, do i or do i not need supports under the joists if they are 12 to 15 foot long on each side(obviously they would be a little longer for the overlap where they meet the other side, to "shake hands" as i remember my old carpentry teacher telling us(carpentry was a LOOOOOOONG time ago)

[Wet Knight]

Is the glass 1/2 full or 1/2 empty?

[Bettypooh]

Allowable joist span is a function of joist width. IIRC you'd need a 2X12 joist for a 15' span and a 2X10 for a 12' span. You'll get some floor bounce with either which is why I recommend shorter spans created by the extra beam. You could also use floor trusses and if you use only one beam that's what you need to do as they are stiffer, but I'm a traditionalist and I don't like those. You'll also need to maintain a minimum of 16" vertical space between any framing member and earth. Wood is not suitable for primary beam supports, code requires masonry of at least 12" nominal square or cylindrical construction.

The best defense against termites is to use footings set at least 2' below grade then to fill the dug space with sand instead of dirt as their tunnels will collapse in sand, unlike dirt, so they can't get to your wood and they will go elsewhere. Formosa termites have invaded the Gulf coast states now, and they are ten times worse than our native species. They are voracious eaters and breeders and they can turn the average house into un-rebuildable scrap in under a year's time. Their colonies are not stopped by treated wood but will tunnel through it to get at the non-treated wood they detect beyond it. They are also fairly resistant to the pesticides we're allowed to use now. This is a tropical breed and nobody knows how far north they will go before winter cold stops them, but at their current pace the entire US could have them in 120-150 years time. Quagga mussels and fire ants are nothing compared to the economic destruction these can do.

Bettypooh

[Baby Brian]

Is the glass 1/2 full or 1/2 empty?

[Wet Knight]

Yet I do know the answer. The glass is ALWAYS full. It just has more air in it than you'd like (assuming you're not in a complete vacuum of course).

Huh, you're too clever by 17/34ths

[Baby Brian]

Huh, you're too clever by 17/34ths

And here I thiught it was 29/58. Oh well, better than not being

[Bettypooh]

People tell me that I'm clever, but I'd rather be rich