Stent Mechanics and FAQ

[Spargano]

The purpose of this thread is to be a repository of stent information. Questions will be collected into a FAQ

please only post information. Personal experiences and experimental updates should be relegated to personal threads.

information necessary to begin:

1: You are responsible for your safety. None of this information is medical advice and all caution should be made.

2. Before working on a stent, you owe it to yourself to familiarize yourself with catheters. Yes, stents will be less prone to bacteria buildup than a catheter draining into a diaper, but without first using catheters you will not know how your urethra works. Additionally, after first using a catheter you will experience burning when you pee. This is a result of the urethra encountering a foreign object and the burning will subside within a days. This will not occur when you progress.

3. Sanitize and sterilize all equipment to minimize the risk of uti’s. Drink plenty of fluids and cranberry juice.

information is key before attempting to build a stent:

Male Urethra Anatomy & Distance Breakdown

The male urethra is divided into several segments:

1. Preprostatic (Intramural) Urethra- Inside the bladder neck (~0.5-1.5 cm).

2. Prostatic Urethra - Runs through the prostate (~3-4 cm).

3. Membranous Urethra - Passes through the external urethral sphincter and perineal membrane (~1-2 cm).

4. Bulbous Urethra - Begins just after the membranous urethra and extends into the bulb of the penis (~3-5 cm).

5. Penile (Spongy) Urethra - Continues through the penis to the meatus (~15 cm but varies).

Distance from the Bladder to the Bulbous Urethra

The bulbous urethra begins after the membranous urethra. Therefore, the total distance from the bladder to the bulbous urethra is approximately:

5-7 cm in most adult males, depending on prostate size and individual variation.

 Stent basics

The stent bypasses the internal external sphincters of the bladder. It will travel through the preprostitic, prostatic, membranous urethra. The lower end of the stent will rest in the bulbous urethra. 
 

all stents MUST have a retrieval line. This line must be secured to the stent either through an anchor or directly to the stent. 
 

Stents typically will have some form of bend in the bladder to prevent migration out of the bladder and a bend in the membranous urethra to keep the stent from migrating into the bladder. 
 

stents are typically constructed of a firm frame structure with a silicone sleeve over it. The eyelits of the stent will have the silicone sleeve folded into itself. There should be no sharp edges anywhere on the stent to avoid irritating the bladder or urethra.

common supplies 

1. windex bottle tube (frame material) - firm but supple material to hold shape. This is typically heated and bent to the desired shape. This is a 2mm ID 4 mm OD pipe.

2. heat gun, candle, or lighter to melt the material. Typically the user will wave the tube over the heat source about two inches above slowly until it becomes pliable to bend. Run the stent under cool water to rush the hardening process. 

3. Food grade silicone tubing 4mm ID 6mm OD

4. water soluble lubricant for inserting the frame into the silicone tube and for inserting into the penis.

5. Retrieval line - high grade floss, beaded fishing line (10-30 lbs strength)

6. Medical forceps to manipulate the construction.

7. Crochet needle or a chopstick to help fold the silicone in on itself for the eyelits.

8. Scissors to cut materials 

Insertion basics 

the insertion process should NEVER hurt. Lubricant should be applied to both the stent and the head of the penis. As the stent stent slides into the urethra it can be guided with fingers outside until it arrives at the bulbous urethra. Carefully feel the stent from behind the testicles and guide it into the prostate where slight pressure will be felt as it slides up into the bladder. It should “snap” into place and urine should immediately flow.

removal basics

the removal process should Never hurt. Gently pull on the retrieval line until you feel the stent pop out of the bladder and into the bulbous urethra. From there slowly pull the stent retrieval line until the stent slides out of the penis. 

emergency removal from bladder in the case of migration.

in the event that the stent migrates completely into the bladder Extreme care should be followed to ensure no damage occurs. 

1. first feel along the bulbous urethra to make sure the stent has in fact migrated in. 

2. don’t panic and stay calm.

3. Stand over a toilet with legs spread wide.

4. Slowly pull on the retrieval line until you feel the stent pushing against the bladder opening. 

5. slowly increase force in a continuous gentle pull until you feel the stent pop out of the bladder.  You will likely have a stream of urine accompany it.

 

EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION!

below you will find posts detailing different stent builds. 
 

[Spargano]

The @cathdiap stent

this is the most common stent used by the majority of stent users. There have been countless spinoffs of this basic stent. 
 

it should be noted @cathdiap has decided to remove himself from this topic and so we ask that you respect his privacy and not ask him any questions. There have been a number of individuals who, by not practicing proper safety, injured themselves and ended up in the emergency room. He does not want these catastrophes attached to him. 

Each square is 0.5 cm. Each person will make the bends and lengths based on his personal anatomy. This model uses a an anchor slipped into the silicone sleeve that the retrieval line is attached to. The anchor is constructed of the same material as the frame. 
 

The stent frame is 

1: a shepherd’s hook upper bend

2. 2-2.5 inches straight for the prostatic urethra section.

3. A .5 inch 45 degree slope through the membranous urethra.

4. A final bend that straightens into the bulbous urethra.

the silicone sleeve is folded into itself for both eyelits. The lower fold goes into the frame. 

excellent advice below:

No never uncomfortable. I don't like playing if there are moments that are not enjoyable. Every time that happened I pulled it out and thought hard what the cause of discomfort could have been and made adjustments. It took me countless times of trial and error before I knew what shape my stent needed to perfectly fit my urethra, stay in place and never cause pain or discomfort. 

And again, there is no quick solution.  But I always believed that once the stent matches the shape of my urethra perfectly it would make no sense at all to cause any discomfort. And as an added bonus the shape of the male urethra happens to take care of a perfect fixation at the same time.

I don't like bragging about it, but I have always had high standards regarding bladder stents. To the point that all movements should at the very least be free from any discomfort. Over the past few years I am only satisfied if I don't feel it AT ALL. To make sure that is the case with a new stent I jump, squat, bike, sit on the edge of hard chairs, lie on my back and on my stomach and during all those activities I want the stent to drain my bladder properly as well. So depending on the position of my body it has to drain continuously when I am upright, And in horizontal position or when sitting it has to drain whenever the bladder starts contracting or when I put a little pressure on my stomach.    

That is a clear sign that the outlet of the stent is hitting the narrowing at the end of the bulbous area of your urethra. You can try two things. Try to make the angle of the bent in the bladder more acute so the stent doesn't slip out of the bladder as much. This causes the end of the stent to slide towards that narrowing at the same time. If the bent in the bladder isn't the problem then the last part of the stent (below the outer sphincter is likely too long and has to be shortened.

From what I have learned it is all about angles and sizes if you try my stent design. For example if the angle of the lower bent isn't acute enough compared to the curve in your urethra below the outer sphincter it will be forced by the pressure of the urethra to choose to go upwards or downwards  It took me a long time to find that out and in my case I had to make the lower bent at an almost 90 degree angle.

Another big improvement for me was to twist the top of the stent a little away from the direction of the bottom part of the stent.  This helps to fix the stent in the bladder, because the bend in the stent now has two directions which provide extra resistance.

And finally, like I stated before, I think the body will try to adapt to whatever minor friction is left, I believe my urethra has become a little more resilient to foreign objects over time.

[Spargano]

In this post we will explore how one actually constructs a stent with the following items.

1. Standard size windex spray bottle pipe (there are many pipes on the market, but this one seems to retain rigidity in all the right ways). Simply pull it off the nozzle.

2. A heat gun

3. medical forceps

4. 4mm id 6mm od food grade silicone tubing

5. water based silicone (atroglide or surgilube)

6. scissors

7. retrieval line (floss or fishing line.

8. choptsticks

step 1. The upper bend
1. place the heat gun with its nozzle facing up and let it run for a minute to get hot.

2.Taking the pipe, rotate it 2 inches above the heat blast slowly until the material is pliable but not losing shape. 

3. using the knuckle of your index finger bend the pipe to the desired angle for the upper bend. You will need to reheat the pipe a few times to get the gentle bend you want. Run the bend under cold water to harden the shape. This angle is going into the bladder and depending on your bladder shape will be sharper or shallower in size.

4. Using scissor cut to the length you want 0.5 - 0.75 inches.

5. Insert the chopstick or medical forceps into the hole and heat until you are able to stretch the opening wider than the initial opening.

step 2. The lower bend.

1. From the upper bend measure between 2.25-2.50 inches.

2. Repeat the heating step from step one to make the pipe pliable.

3. At the mark for the first lower bend make a 45 degree bend. This is to clear the membranous urethra. 

4. measure a half inch from the start of this bend and make a second bend that ends with the pipe 90 degrees. 

5. Heat these two bends to make a soft slope that looks uniform (this will take time to find the right angles for your urethra.

6. Cut the length that you want. Typically between .75 and 1 inch.

7. Your frame should look like the letter C to some extent. Keep an eye on the angles. If you didn’t cure the plastic enough it may bend in the nest steps.

step 3- the sleeve.

1. Take your length of silicone tubing and add a generous amount of lubricant inside: take some lubricant and grease the frame 

2. using a T-shirt or other cloth, grip the tube and the frame and insert the frame into the tube, springing the tube like a corkscrew until about an inch and a half of silicone is past the  stent. (This will be folded over later)

step 4 - the anchor and retrieval line.

 plastic anchor method

1.cut a piece of the plastic pipe with angles on both sides so that it forms a trapezoid. Thread the line of your choice through this and either tie it off or pull the length to make a double line. make the line super long.

2. put lube into the lower tube.

3.Using the forceps, slice the anchor into the lower bend between the silicone and the frame.

silicone ring method

1. Cut a quarter inch of the silicone tubing and then thread the line though the hole.

2. Put lube into the lower tube

3. Using forceps slide the ring into the silicone tube.

4. using the forceps, prop open the ring inside the tube and then slide it over the frame while still inside. Using your fingers, hold the ring in place as you pull out the forceps.

5. Using the tip of the forceps, prod the ring further down the frame

step 5. The end folds.

Lower bend

1. apply a small amount inside the silicone tube. 

2. using the t-shirt/cloth hold the stent upright 

3.  Using the forceps or chopstick push the top of the silicone tube into the inside. 

4. At this point half of the fold should be inside, using the instrument (forceps or chopstick) push the other side Insee to make the fold complete. Pull out the retrieval line slowly to make sure the fold does not come undone. 

5. push inside the fold to straighten any wrinkles so that it is all smooth. Opening the forceps inside to stretch can help with this.

6. using the forceps stretch the fold to slip over the frame so that only an 1/2 of an inch of the fold hangs over. (Too much overhang and the stent can pinch shut, not enough and the pipe can scratch the urethra.)

Upper bend 

1. repeat steps 1-5 

2. some will insert the upper bend frame into the fold as well. Others don’t. Some will poke holes just under true upper bend fold to assist with ventilation. Others don’t.

3. Run the stent through hot water until you see the water coming out smoothly on both sides. 
 

Step 6. Insertion

1. disinfect stent and hands

2 apply lubricant to the head of the penis and stent.

3. Insert into the penis until entire stent is consumed by the meatus.

4. At this point, along the outside of the penis you can feel the stent. Find the bottom and guide it down to the scrotum.

5. Past the scrotum in the bulbous urethra it will be like a mini-cave. This can be felt through the scrotum and just behind. Using your fingers guide the stent into the prostate and slowly push until it snaps into place. Urine should start flowing immediately.

Step 7. The retrieval line.

1. From the head of the penis measure out enough line to account for an erection.

2. From there add more length to make a noose that will slip over the head of the penis or tie the line to a silicone O-ring that will slip over the head of the penis.

[Spargano]

On 1/10/2025 at 9:20 PM, cozycurious said:

I’ve been lurking here for years and wanted to share a design that I’ve been using on and off since roughly 2017 and have been meaning to share for some years. This approach uses flexible polyurethane tubing which is straightened for insertion and curls up on one end inside the bladder to prevent migration.  It’s heavily inspired by the common “pigtail” or “J” type ureteral stents which are commonly used in urology.

My construction procedure is roughly as follows:
I start with a 10FR polyurethane nasogastric feeding tube and heat a small section roughly 25cm from the end using a hot air rework station.  As that section starts to soften, I pull on both ends until that section stretches to form a thinned neck and finally breaks. I can then gently melt the end with hot air to form a smooth end without sharp edges.

Next I thermoform the tubing to create the pigtail curl. I straighten the tubing and run a length of soft stainless steel wire through the lumen. I then bend the tubing and wire to form the pigtail and gently heat that section under hot air.  Once it heats to the glass transition temperature and softens, I plunge it into cool water to lock in the curly shape and pull out the wire.

I sometimes anneal the straight portion of the tubing to improve flexibility with gentle heating and gradual cooling.

Finally, I use a leather hole punch tool to cut small holes in the side and attach a retrieval lanyard which uses a polypropylene suture and silicone o-ring.

I then prepare an insertion apparatus consisting of a longer length of stainless steel wire as a guidewire/straightener and a shorter length of tubing as a pusher.

My current cleaning procedure involves first washing with soapy water and scrubbing the inside with a small diameter straw cleaning brush. After that, I disinfect with a broad-spectrum activated hydrogen peroxide cleaner, rinse with isopropyl alcohol, and dry under a stream of HEPA purified air.  

I’ll note that this doesn’t fully sterilize the stent and there is some risk of infection due to lingering spores.  I’ve been experimenting with vaporized hydrogen sterilization, but I’ve still got some work to do before I’ve got a reliable and streamlined process for this.

Insertion:
I clean myself thoroughly, lay out the equipment, and don sterile gloves.  I then assemble the insertion apparatus by threading the straightener wire through the pusher tubing and stent, and applying lubricant from a sterile packet at various points.  The guidewire is bent on one end to ensure that the wire itself can’t extend past the end of the stent and potentially damage my urethral lining.
I gently guide the straightened stent down my urethra until it encounters some slight resistance near my external urinary sphincter. I then hold the straightener wire in place and advance the pusher tube to gently advance the stent into my bladder - this is generally evidenced by a trickle of urine beginning to leak.  I’ve attached a silicone o-ring to the end of the pusher tube which allows me to feel how deeply it has advanced by palpating my urethra through my taint. I then hold the pusher tube in place and slowly pull out the straightener and finally remove the straightener itself.

I generally find this design to be quite comfortable and effective – let me know what you think.

the @cozycurious stent

On 12/22/2024 at 7:16 AM, dlnoir said:

Over the years it didn’t change all that much kept the basics the same. The trick for me was to find the right length and distances between the O-rings. The overall length today is 9 cm metric or 3-5/8” American standard. The measurements I use are: 25 mm or 1” for the top end, 50 mm or 2” between the O-rings and 16 mm or 3/8” at the end. The retrieval line is about 25 cm or 10” can be shortened at any desired length. I make it out of silicone and fishing line.

 

 

 

 

On 12/23/2024 at 3:33 AM, dlnoir said:

@UsuallyDiaperedthe O-rings are not big and the silicone material is very soft and pliable, they measure 19 x 1.58 mm metric or 3/4” x 1/16”. I do stich them to the tube using the same fishing wire as the one used for the retrieval line. The color becomes darker since the wire leans against each other. I think two O-rings are mandatory to keep the stent from migrating into the bladder or moving around in the first place. The second O-ring is positioned in such way that it will stay in the bulbous. The length of the stent in the lower part is no more than 5 /8” so it won’t enter the urethra, it will also stay in the bulbous.

 

On 12/23/2024 at 7:09 AM, dlnoir said:

@Sparganoi use a standard needle and sew the O-ring to the side of the silicone tube, not much to it. I go back and forth through the same hole about four times, by adding more tread in the smae hole I work up some sort of resistance so the tread and O-ring stay put, I don’t tie it off. Basically I use two pieces of fishing wire one to stich the two O-ring and one to make the retrieval line. There are no knots in the first line and the knot of the retrieval line is hidden inside the stent. To insert the stent no tools are needed, just push it in and slide forward it until in place. Takes less then 10 seconds to get it in place.

 

The @dlnoir Stent
 

On 11/27/2024 at 7:37 AM, ReggieRolf said:

https://x.com/UraKerry/status/1760936672319918520?s=19 (my twitter account)
I recorded this so that anyone can make a stent of the same shape as the one I made in the past.
The thickness of the catheter for men is about 4.6mm. The one in the photo is an aluminum pipe.Tube is silicon.

The shape was made based on a photo I came across by chance when I was researching stents.

It seems that a certain degree of curvature is more stable than a straight line.

If it is 45° or 30° (any angle in between), it can be inserted with confidence without feeling too uncomfortable.

Interestingly, when inserting it into the urethra, it will go in smoothly if you insert it in the direction of the curve.

When you insert it, when the stent body naturally slides in halfway, it is a sign that the tip has entered the bladder.

If you apply light pressure to the lower abdomen from there, incontinence will begin. Once that happens, you will no longer be able to stop it on your own.

The @ReggieRolf stent

[Spargano]

On 10/11/2024 at 5:01 PM, nappyboymids said:

On 9/17/2024 at 3:50 AM, bleie1990 said:

Here are pictures from my latest stent

@bleie1990 stent

On 3/16/2024 at 4:02 AM, DlNord78 said:

This is my incontinence device. Used it 24/7 for years, change it weekly. Comfortable and no discomfort at all.

Hole is 16cm down from tip, 12cm below ballon.

@DINord78 holey foley

 it measured 14cm total in length. Here is a picture of the one I had before that I wore almost 95% of the time for 6 months. Only difference is that both ends are angled about the same angle as my previous, but I made the length to the bend shorter. 

On 2/22/2024 at 10:05 PM, zraihusky said:

 

On 2/24/2024 at 3:34 PM, zraihusky said:

Good afternoon!

Here is a full explanation on my design.

https://www.dailydiapers.com/board/index.php?/topic/51022-my-experience-with-stents/&do=findComment&comment=2036559

The size of the balls go through my meatus without issue.

The one I currently have in is slightly longer so I could get a good bend for the bladder. It is currently 14.5cm. it looks a lot like the link I provided. 

If this doesn't answer your questions, please let me know! I love this design.. less parts, less places for bacteria, no metal, and I love it! 

I should mention since I learned recently, you should heat the tube very well... Not too much to burn or make it loose structure, but the heat is what helps it keep it's shape after you put it in the ice water. 

@zraihusky stent

On 2/25/2024 at 7:00 AM, Old_PA said:

A modified foley catheter is simply one with a hole in the tube and the end is blocked so that urine flows out via the urethra. This is a Fr14 with a hole cut just over 10cm (4in) from the inner tip. Care must be taken not to cut the inflation line. This catheter has been used many times, explaining the stretched balloon. Before use it is soaked in an alcohol solution then rinsed with previously boiled water. The hole was cut with a sharp blade, wrapping the tube around a finger. I used a butane gas flame to smooth off the edges of the cut. (Don't know if that worked but there is no irritation.) I have had my prostate and inner sphincter removed so my urethra is shortened. A regular guy would need to place the hole a little further along, say at 13cm or about 5in from the inner tip. A silicone catheter would be easier to cut.    

About 26 years ago I had a "Prince Albert" piercing. Initially the piercing was very small; 1.6mm. At that time the thickest sound that would pass the meatus was quarter inch; 6.35mm. Gradually I stretched the piercing eventually to 8mm. During this time I noticed the meatus was also stretching, just by wearing a ring in the piercing. I suspect most of the stretching occurred wearing the smaller gauge rings. I can now accommodate a 11mm sound and just now am wearing a 10mm diameter Princes Wand.   

@Old_PA holey foley

[Spargano]

On 9/7/2022 at 2:13 PM, Loveable_guy said:

From personal experience you may need a tad more fluid in the balloon to hold this in place. Also the cut at the 40mm mark in your design may cut in to you some. I poke a hole in the cap and let the retrial cord and fluids run out there. After cutting the cath at length I use a blunt needle to fill the balloon. Then using forceps  to clamp the new stent I will add a snip of solid round plastic to plug the fill line. I use sterile KY to fill the balloon. 

Be safe and use a cord that is not going to break. I prefer an O ring that will fit over my shaft when the stent is in place. This way less is hanging to get caught or pulled while changing.

Nice work !

Here is what use most of the time.

@Loveable_guy stent

[joemama414]

Hi @Spargano, thank you for all the hard work you put into this new topic! You've done a fantastic job synthesizing the wisdom and information from the gigantic library of posts in the old stent topic.

I was wondering if you could expand a little on your mentioning of getting experience using a catheter. I believe you responded to my post in the old topic, but it's since been deleted. My first time trying a stent ended up being quite rough as I totally rushed the process, so my urethra was not used to foreign objects. While the experience with the stent inside was great, insertion and removal was a real challenge and quite scary for a while. When I tried to remove it, the stent didn't seem able to squeeze through my meatus after it was irritated by insertion. Thankfully, everything worked out; waiting a night, a hot shower in the morning, and some Advil helped to finally get it out. For anyone else wanting to start experimenting, definitely start with catheters.

EDIT: (This experience was 100% my own fault. I definitely rushed the process, neglecting to start with catheters and jumping straight to stents. I was too eager, so it's no wonder why things didn't work out properly. To anyone else beginning their experimentation, take my experience as a warning of what NOT to do.)

Anyways, I think you'd mentioned a week or so of experience using a catheter would help prevent future irritation and prepare my urethra for using stents. Do you mean I should keep a catheter in for a week? It's quite challenging for me to find a time to experiment with incontinence, so usually weekends are my only opportunity. Would keeping a catheter in over a weekend a couple times be enough? Also, do you suggest using a holey foley or draining a catheter into a diaper? I know catheters aren't exactly the focus of this stent discussion, but I'd appreciate some advice using them to prepare for diving back into stents.

Also, while I wait to use my stent again, I'd like to tweak the design a bit. How are you be able to tell if the stent is too long? When using it, I could occasionally feel myself sitting on the stent and pushing it up in my chair. Is that normal? Should I be able to feel the bottom of the stent and push on it by pressing on the Bulbar Urethra? On some occasions it would drain great, especially standing up. Except when leaning back in a chair while sitting more on the back of my bum, it wouldn't really drain while sitting.

Thanks again Spargano!

Edited February 11 by joemama414

[Spargano]

The timing is all relative. It’s about your body getting used to a foreign object and your urethra getting used to something going in and out without causing a burning feeling. That might take a few days or a few weeks depending on how your body adjusts. Definitely you should be drinking a TON of water to keep flushing everything.

@Old_PA was my initial tutor on holeyfoleys. Basically you cut a hole in the catheter below the prostate and then plug the end of the catheter so that urine comes out for the hole. That hole needs to be extremely smooth. A test I have heard works well for any holes is the cat test. Lick it. If when you lick it you feel the ridge on if the hole on your tongue you can bet you will feel it in your urethra and have great irritation. 
 

regardless, as you are using the catheters you should pay careful attention to the feel of your body, where the prostate begins, when the bladder begins, etc. 
 

unfortunately it’s hard for me or anyone to say what is too big, but look at the measurements of the anatomy above. Your central part should not exceed 3 inches and should not be  shorter than 2 inches, but there is a lot of play in that one inch which will make a different of too short or too long. The bladder itself when empty is 2 inches by 2 inches.

[lackofname]

Kudos @Spargano for all of the work that you've put into this! Also great to see that my little annotations of cathdiap's stents came in handy.
I recon I'll try a redesign using strictly your methods here, the last few tries I've made have drained, but I had to bear down and a few other issues.
Nonetheless, I always make sure I take all precautions, and thanks again for your safety-oriented post.

[Naviking]

Hi Stenters! Been using stents from time to time , got an UTI some time ago but now back in "business", more carefull than ever to have super clean "equipment".

My stent design is working good and fits very well when in position but the insert can be a bit tricky since my meatus is a bit tight (i use lube during insertation).

My question is , anyone tried going from 6mm outer diameter to 4 mm ? Is it easier for the stent to get out of position? Any other concerns to consider?

( The material/tube for the 4mm stent comes from an intermitent catheter ).

[Spargano]

The 4mm id 6mm od seems to be the working standard for comfort and drainage. I once attempted a 5mm id 7mm od and it was noticibly less confortable.

going smaller might be more comfortable, but it could have 1 of 2 drawbacks.

1: it could restrict the flow too much 

2: it could more easily drift into the bladder

no idea on how possible either of those are. If you have the materials, make it and then report back on how it went under testing 😁

[Naviking]

My approach ......

[Spargano]

Very interesting design. My concern is the toxicity of the glue and the inability to make the fold in your 4 mm design.

also what is your methodology for melting silicone? When I tried it, the silicone would not melt, and when it got to the point of super heat, the silicone became brittle

[Naviking]

Hi, in respond to you questions/remarks Spargano.

1. In the data sheet for the glue it is stated "non toxic", so i pressume it is ok.

2.It is correct , the 4mm stent is impossible to fold , have tried to make the edge soft with very fine ( 2000 grit) sandpaper , seems to work but not as good as the "fold".

3. When heating the silicone tube i can see a change from "non transparent" to "transparent" , at this moment i know it has reached correct temperatur in order to maintain its shape when the inner steel rod with angle is removed after eveything has cooled down.

Besides , its a fantastic amazing feeling having the stent inserted, dribbling totaly without control into the diaper !! Have not dared to be in public yet with the stent but one day soon .......

[Spargano]

Interesting. Must be different silicone. My silicone is food grade silicone and is transparent to begin with. Which one do you use?

would you say the time to get to that point is seconds or minutes?

[Naviking]

Hi Spargano ,

The tube is semitransperent from start, when using the heatgun i have to monitor the tube closely , when the hose starts to be transparent it might take 6-8 seconds more until it is ready and the shape is solid. Then i have to let it all  cool down a minute or so and voilá...i have a bent silicone tube.

The picture shows the product i am using.

Hope it helps.

 

[Spargano]

Interesting, there is a difference between aquarium silicone and food grade silicone.

[Naviking]

Spargano , the hose i am using is food-safe according to data from producer but maybe there are some other differences. It is stated also from producer the hose color is semi-transparent. Maybe you should search for a different silicon hose ?

[Don Incognito]

On 2/14/2025 at 3:25 PM, Naviking said:

Spargano , the hose i am using is food-safe according to data from producer but maybe there are some other differences. It is stated also from producer the hose color is semi-transparent. Maybe you should search for a different silicon hose ?

The type of silicone tube recommended for this is also referred to as "platinum cured". And here's the one company in the US I've found that offers that with the 6mm OD x 4mm ID:

https://www.fixsupply.com/zusa-ht-3666-3a-fda-silicone-tubing-4mm-id-x-6mm-od-x-25-ft-long

[DiaperNomad]

Might be a dumb question but wouldn't the optimal stent for this purpose be something like the spanner stent but long enough to reach the Urinary Sphincter?
 

[Spargano]

On 2/17/2025 at 7:22 PM, DiaperNomad said:

Might be a dumb question but wouldn't the optimal stent for this purpose be something like the spanner stent but long enough to reach the Urinary Sphincter?
 

No, that is not dumb at all. That particular stent requires surgical insertion. What you are referring to is a modified catheter that is shown earlier in this thread, which involves partially filling the balloon and then inserting. I have seen videos of individuals inserting a Foley catheter filling the balloon, and then pulling it with a flaccid penis Until a good chunk of the catheter is outside and then clamping it zip tying it and putting a cap on it. I do not recommend this at all as the risks look immense.

 

 

On 2/4/2025 at 10:18 PM, Spargano said:

@Loveable_guy stent

 

[Spargano]

the modified navi frameless stent. It is only the silicone, no plastic inner frame.

a platinum cured silicone tube melted at the bends and then folded in for the eyelets. A retrieval line is sewn into the fold. Using a hole puncher, it is vented on the sides near the upper eyelet on the upper side of the tube.

this combines @cathdiap and @Naviking stent designs. 

 

[lackofname]

Hey Guys. I've tried another Cathdiap style stent, and I would call it partially successful. There was no blood or anything this time, but still no incontinence either. It was made exactly to the specifications in the first and second posts in this thread.
For my next one, do you recon I call it quits on the frame and try your guy's new frameless one, or keep going with what I have?

EDIT: I'll add a pic later, when it's not 11:30 at night.

[Spargano]

2 hours ago, lackofname said:

Hey Guys. I've tried another Cathdiap style stent, and I would call it partially successful. There was no blood or anything this time, but still no incontinence either. It was made exactly to the specifications in the first and second posts in this thread.
For my next one, do you recon I call it quits on the frame and try your guy's new frameless one, or keep going with what I have?

EDIT: I'll add a pic later, when it's not 11:30 at night.

I would say no. You haven’t got your lengths figured out yet. It’s either too long so that the stent is hitting the bladder wall or too short and not getting to the opening.  

[Don Incognito]

On 3/4/2025 at 9:31 AM, Spargano said:

I would say no. You haven’t got your lengths figured out yet. It’s either too long so that the stent is hitting the bladder wall or too short and not getting to the opening.  

Is there any advice you can give on how to go about doing that? That would be a good addition to this thread.