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HiFi & DIY Audio?


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Huh.. I'm not any kind of expert, but I have to ask, how did you diagnose the amp to conclude that half the output transistors are shot? Because I don't think that's the problem, knowing the basics I know about amplifiers. 

What kind of amplifier is it?

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what type of amp?  Are you trying to buy parts specific to your amp?  There are some standard / generic power transistors that pretty much work in every amp. I have a bryston to repair and snagged a bunch of MJ15025 (pnp) and MJ15024 (npn).

 

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Not sure if that's something I'd agree with. If Bettypooh's amplifier doesn't have some special type of power transistors, like sankens in MT-200 package, or perhaps special MOSFETs, the identical replacement parts shouldn't cost a lot more than an ordinary power BJT such as an MJ1502x you suggest. Only if you buy knockoffs from aliexpress, you might save some money... temporarily, before the cheap knockoffs blow again, which won't be a long time I think. 

Here's the thing however, output transistors are typically the most robust and best cooled semiconductor components in an amplifier, and in many cases they're not the components that fry first. If they do, the driver stage typically goes with them, and other things as well. How does even only a half of output transistors burn and the rest stay intact. Also, which half? One channel? 

Also, a well designed amplifier, with appropriate fuses on power supply rails, a current overload protection circuit that will limit the driver current if the load impedance is too low (ergo output current too high), and a sufficient cooling, is not supposed to just blow output power transistors. And an even better designed amplifier would have an overtemperature detection circuit, or at least a simple thermostat that will unload it in case of overheating, making it pretty much impossible to blow. 

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Computer audio question here, Im not a huge sound nerd but do enjoy listening to my music here and there through my haptic feedback Skullcandy Crusher, I keep them plugged into the back of my computer thought a long headphone cable.

 

Recently ran into a problem while installing a PCIE usb card, It semi-permanently disabled my onboard audio while the card was plugged in making my displayport monitor speakers though video card default, or I could use a usb headset. Removed the pcie card and my onboard worked again.

 

I only have one PCIE slot, but I have plenty of PCI slots, Would it hurt to use a PCI sound card in this day and age, I see they make them in PCIE flavor as well which I assume to be newer versions/tech.

Also, Would I get louder sound through my headphones with a dedicated pci sound card, or should I get a PCIE sound card and a PCI usb card? What about a USB sound card or DAC?

 

This would just be for my headphones, dont need a surround sound setup.

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You should be able to set the on-board sound output as default regardless. What OS are you using?

Actual sound pressure level is contingent upon the ability of a device to drive a low-impedance load such as headphones (which in case of your Skullcandy is 32 Ohms) and the nominal output voltage. Some devices have outputs that aren't beefy enough to work with such low impedance loads because they made to be output into another preamplifiers/amplifiers with input impedance on the order of several kOhms, and there's no telling that some type of device will be better at driving your headphones than other, it depends on specific parameters of a specific model of a device. 

Sound cards (integrated or PCI/PCI Express) are usually designed with the knowledge that people will plug headphones directly in them, so they'd be better at driving headphones with enough loudness than the a pure DAC. Again, whether headphones will play louder with a PCI/PCIe sound card or on board card is impossible to tell without knowing which specific models are we comparing. 

But in my experience, on board sound card output tends to be dreadfully low, probably putting maybd 10 mW into 32 ohm headphones, possibly even less. Recent MoBos I used to own had notoriously low line output level; it must have been way less than 1V RMS at full volume. I remember I used to plug my amplifier directly to the on-board sound output; an amplifier that at 1.23V input level pushes out 250 Watts into 4 Ohms (and I mean real 250 Watts, not BestBuy's Made in China 250 "Watts"), which would not only be absolutely deafening, but it would very quickly turn my old 4Ohm / 15W continuous power handling speakers I used to use in conjunction with this amplifier, to ashes. 

For enough loudness and clean sound, DAC and a dedicated headphone amplifier would be the best option. 

For instance, this FiiO DAC/headamp combo can put out 200 mW into 32 ohm headphones. Plenty enough for your Skullcandy Crushers to actually crush your skull. 

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Couldnt set onboard in bios, but did fix my problem, I was told I could try plugging it into my second video card slot and now my onboard sound works properly, I will look into the DAC you mentioned.

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10 hours ago, DiapersOfTheStorm said:

Default sound device is something you should be able to set in your OS, no need to go into BIOS for that. 

The PCIE card was sharing lanes with the video card, I dont understand the specifics but onboard audio didnt show up in sound properties and my realtek software wouldnt load up at boot or even run on command. Only my monitor and headset would show up in sound properties.. Tried plugging headphones into front panel but same thing.

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  • 5 years later...

I have a pretty neat hifi with a direct drive turntable, separate phono preamp, integrated amp for line level inputs such as my cd player and a Yamaha cassette deck with remote control.

I used to do a lot of tape editing on reels of tape but my hands aren't up to that anymore and much the same when it came to buying and soldering kits.

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