Chain Maile Shorts

[Guest abdiaperboy]

Has anyone bothered to create/pay for a set of chain-maile "diaper pants"...

The idea would be similar to locking plastic pants, but built entirely out of chain-maile, with locks at the waist and around each thigh..

I don't own any locking plastic pants, but I love the idea and I think chain maile pants would be even better...

If anyone has the time/skill to do this, I'd love to see the finished product.. there are sites online where you can buy rings of all types in bulk (stainless/aluminum/rubber/welded/machined fabric etc)

[Snugglebug]

But the RUST, man, the RUST!!!

[beallucanb]

I guess if you used stainless links and had alot of time you could make such a product.

I like the idea of useing a womans heavyweight nylon 1 peice swim suit as a lock on diaper cover, if you re enforced the straps that go over the shoulders and connected them with a peice of chain or heavy zip ties the wearer would not be able to take the suit off without help.

[Lost_Little_Sarah]

If you use the right materials like stainless steel for instance rust wouldn't be an issue. I don't honestly plan on trying to make one of those though. I have other chainmaille projects to finish and for some reason chainmaille under clothes have never really been something that have apealed to me to try to make.

[acemanner]

ARG. i've worn chainmail. only thing I'd be VERY worried about is pinching. >.<

[orange clock]

I have made and woren a decent amount of chainmail. I do have the skill to make pants such as these but not the material. First off there is the issue of pinching. it may pinch you and the diaper causing pain or even worse, diaper ripping. it would have to be done with a very thin gauge and very fine links to try to limit or prevent this. A pair of undies over the diaper would work well too, just more boring. That is how they normally solve the pinching problem, with a layer of fabric. 16 gauge would work and be more sturdy but 18 would work better because it is more fine and fluid when in links. Galvanized steel should be used to prevent rust, stainless steel is way too pricey. If the rings were riveted it would give it a whole lot more strength, especially because the gauge and rings would be smaller. It also would prevent a naughty, determined baby from getting pliers and weakening it one link at a time until it could be wiggled out of.

Overall, to make it work well, it would have to be form fitting, fine and strong. There are lots of curves to work with so the first pattern would be difficult. After I have made one though it should be easy because I can record the pattern. If one was to be commercially produced it would cost between $150-200 at least because of the complexity. Double if the rings were riveted because it is so much work. I think I may make one for myself in the near future if I can get some materials. I already have all of the equipment to make it. If I do I will make sure to show everyone. I wouldn't mind making them on commission either if anyone really wanted one. I would just need to get the whole thing worked out first.

[lasardas]

I have made and woren a decent amount of chainmail. I do have the skill to make pants such as these but not the material. First off there is the issue of pinching. it may pinch you and the diaper causing pain or even worse, diaper ripping. it would have to be done with a very thin gauge and very fine links to try to limit or prevent this. A pair of undies over the diaper would work well too, just more boring. That is how they normally solve the pinching problem, with a layer of fabric. 16 gauge would work and be more sturdy but 18 would work better because it is more fine and fluid when in links. Galvanized steel should be used to prevent rust, stainless steel is way too pricey. If the rings were riveted it would give it a whole lot more strength, especially because the gauge and rings would be smaller. It also would prevent a naughty, determined baby from getting pliers and weakening it one link at a time until it could be wiggled out of.

Overall, to make it work well, it would have to be form fitting, fine and strong. There are lots of curves to work with so the first pattern would be difficult. After I have made one though it should be easy because I can record the pattern. If one was to be commercially produced it would cost between $150-200 at least because of the complexity. Double if the rings were riveted because it is so much work. I think I may make one for myself in the near future if I can get some materials. I already have all of the equipment to make it. If I do I will make sure to show everyone. I wouldn't mind making them on commission either if anyone really wanted one. I would just need to get the whole thing worked out first.

two things i must say here. one, galvanized leaves a residue on everything it touches and that gets annoying. more importantly, use aluminum, greater shine, cheaper, and way the hell lighter. second off, not sure where your located, but if your serious about making chainmail, check www.theringlord.com, great selection, rather fair prices. been using em for years, havent had a single problem with em over that time.

[Snugglebug]

I have made and woren a decent amount of chainmail. I do have the skill to make pants such as these but not the material.

I've gotta join the SCA one of these days...

[orange clock]

two things i must say here. one, galvanized leaves a residue on everything it touches and that gets annoying. more importantly, use aluminum, greater shine, cheaper, and way the hell lighter. second off, not sure where your located, but if your serious about making chainmail, check www.theringlord.com, great selection, rather fair prices. been using em for years, havent had a single problem with em over that time.

I have checked out the ring lord. It is far cheaper to buy wire locally and turn them into rings yourself using a dowel rig. But I happen to have good wire available that is local. I have not experienced much problem at all with galvanized steel leaving a residue. At least all of the steel I have used that is labeled "galvanized" anyway. I suppose you may be right about the aluminum though. It is just that everything I have seen made in aluminum is labeled as "costume wear" and I suppose I just assumed it is not all that ridged compared to steel and that the only redeeming qualities was that it was shiny and light. It has been awhile since I have truly been involved in full works of chainmail (it can get pricey after awhile) but I incorporate it into my art very often. I am certainly no novice but certainly no master as well.

[Snugglebug]

I have checked out the ring lord. It is far cheaper to buy wire locally and turn them into rings yourself using a dowel rig. But I happen to have good wire available that is local. I have not experienced much problem at all with galvanized steel leaving a residue. At least all of the steel I have used that is labeled "galvanized" anyway. I suppose you may be right about the aluminum though. It is just that everything I have seen made in aluminum is labeled as "costume wear" and I suppose I just assumed it is not all that ridged compared to steel and that the only redeeming qualities was that it was shiny and light. It has been awhile since I have truly been involved in full works of chainmail (it can get pricey after awhile) but I incorporate it into my art very often. I am certainly no novice but certainly no master as well.

How do you put rivets in the rings or is that something you have to cast individual rings for?

[orange clock]

How do you put rivets in the rings or is that something you have to cast individual rings for?

It is more simple to do if you flatten the whole rings which actually adds more practical battle protection because it bring the rings closer together. flattened rings use to be used to prevent an arrow, spear, or sword tip from penetrating your skin a little through the gaps between the rings. The rivets helped with keeping the rings together during such a "stabbing" blow. If and arrow can break just one ring it can very easily go through. very sorry, I digress.

After you make your rings you bend the two ends so that they overlap slightly. Then, if preferred, you heat them using a forge or torch. However, it is not completely necessary. Then you take each ring and hammer it flat so that the two ends are still overlapping each other but flattened. If you want you can just flatten the ends with a special hammer, leaving just the ends flattened over each other and the rest of the ring nice and round. The only advantage to doing this is aesthetics and weight because when flattened the rings cluster a bit more densely.

Then you take a special chisel tool, with a nice sharp point, and hammer a hole through the overlapping ends. After all of that just bend the rings apart and make the garment as you normally would while hammering in rivets through the holes as you go. You can buy rivets in bulk at several places online. It all gets time consuming but after you get a technique down it really isn't all that bad. It looks cool as hell too, gives a very authentic look.

[Snugglebug]

It is more simple to do if you flatten the whole rings which actually adds more practical battle protection because it bring the rings closer together. flattened rings use to be used to prevent an arrow, spear, or sword tip from penetrating your skin a little through the gaps between the rings. The rivets helped with keeping the rings together during such a "stabbing" blow. If and arrow can break just one ring it can very easily go through. very sorry, I digress.

After you make your rings you bend the two ends so that they overlap slightly. Then, if preferred, you heat them using a forge or torch. However, it is not completely necessary. Then you take each ring and hammer it flat so that the two ends are still overlapping each other but flattened. If you want you can just flatten the ends with a special hammer, leaving just the ends flattened over each other and the rest of the ring nice and round. The only advantage to doing this is aesthetics and weight because when flattened the rings cluster a bit more densely.

Then you take a special chisel tool, with a nice sharp point, and hammer a hole through the overlapping ends. After all of that just bend the rings apart and make the garment as you normally would while hammering in rivets through the holes as you go. You can buy rivets in bulk at several places online. It all gets time consuming but after you get a technique down it really isn't all that bad. It looks cool as hell too, gives a very authentic look.

Thank you very much for explaining the techniques, as well as their practical applications. Your descriptions were very informative!

[orange clock]

Thank you very much for explaining the techniques, as well as their practical applications. Your descriptions were very informative!

No problem at all. More than happy to share.